This post- Primrose Blouse Crochet Pattern- may contain affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support!
The Primrose Blouse is a crochet pattern that I released in May of 2015. Just recently, I decided to make another one, and after making a few changes, I’ve updated the entire pattern!
For this lovely spring top I used Knit Picks Brava Worsted yarn (#4 weight) in the colorway Seashell. The color was just perfect! It’s a bright coral color that has me SO ready for spring! This top is worked from the top down, with the sleeves added at the end. It is easily adjustable in both width and length.
You can purchase the Primrose Blouse crochet pattern on Ravelry and Etsy!
I am an independent crochet pattern designer. Which means, I design and write crochet patterns! I self publish my patterns independently. I’ve been doing this designing thing for 5 years now, and it’s the best! But there are a lot of things that people don’t understand about my job. So in my Wednesday live (1pm est on Instagram every Wed!) show, I shared 10 things that you may or may now know about being an Independent Pattern Designer! Hope you enjoy! If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment below!
1. It’s fun!
I get to use my creativity for a living! It’s a blast! I get to crochet and challenge myself and learn new things! I get to express myself every day! Being an independent pattern designer is so fun!
2. There is a LOT of math involved!
I hated math so much when I was growing up and was so certain that I would not have a job that required me to do math on a regular basis. Boy, was I wrong! Being a crochet pattern designer requires using math every single day. Grading sizes and even just figuring out stitches requires math! So I use math all the time! So much math! I still hate the actual math, but I love designing so much that I get over it and do it.
3.It looks different for everyone.
The designing process is different for everyone. There’s not really a right or wrong way to do things when you design. There are standards, yes, which you can find at www.craftyarncouncil.com, but each step is done differently by each designer. I personally don’t sketch out any of my designs before I create them. They just go straight from my head to my hook. Many designers, however, do sketch out their designs. Some designers work up samples of a bunch of different designs and then type them all up afterwards. I have to do one sample at a time, and immediately go type it up. Otherwise I get overwhelmed. The entire process is different for each person, which is what makes designing so amazing!
4.There are a lot of us!
There are a lot of crochet pattern designers! Just scroll the hashtag #crochet on Instagram for a few minutes! I’m certain there are a lot of knitting designers and sewing designers as well! But you know what? That’s okay! Every person has something amazing to bring to the world! Everyone! You, me, and everyone else! So that means each and every independent pattern designer has something amazing to bring to their craft! We all have different styles. We all excel in different parts of the craft. Some of us are better at written patterns, some are better at video tutorials! We all bring something great to this world!
5. We make mistakes!
Independent Pattern Designers are human! We miss things. I’ve had a pattern tested and tech edited and still managed to publish it with a mistake in it! It happens. We don’t like when it happens, but it does. So if you find a mistake in a pattern, please just politely reach out and let us know. I promise we will be happy to fix it!
6.It’s a SLOW process!
From the initial idea to release day, the process can be slow! Also growing as an independent pattern designer can be slow! There are many steps to both! You have to create the pattern, type it up, get it tech edited and/or tested, photograph it, and advertise! Sometimes it can take up to a month for me to publish a design! If you’re looking for something that is quick, this may not be for you!
7.It’s not just sitting and creating all day.
Some days, I just sit and crochet all day. But those days are few and far between. Most days are spent typing, posting on social media, emailing my list, listing patterns on Ravelry or Etsy, or adding content to my website. There’s just so much more to running an independent pattern designing business than just the creating part.
8.It is a constant learning process.
I am always learning new things. Things about crochet, photography, running my business, marketing, and more! Every day there’s a new marketing technique, or an easier way to explain a stitch, or a new app everyone is loving! It is a never-ending learning process!
9.It can get lonely.
I work from home all day, every day. I’m a home body so it’s not terrible most of the time. But every once in a while it does get lonely. Some days I never leave the house. Sometimes weeks go by before I hang out with friends or have a date with my husband. It takes some serious self-care and discipline to not only work when you need to work (which means sometimes you can’t go to lunch with the girlfriends), but also to stop working when it’s time to stop, and go spend some time with the people you love.
10.It’s hard to explain to people who aren’t in your craft community.
If I tell a crocheter that I’m a crochet pattern designer, he/she will know what I do. But if I tell someone who doesn’t crochet at all, they probably won’t have any idea exactly what I do. Many times, I’ve told friends or acquaintances what I do, and they think it means I sell finished crochet items. It sometimes takes a bit to help them understand the designing and pattern publishing part.
Here’s the actual video of the live segment from Wednesday, February 13th! If you have any questions, leave them below in the comments!
I was so excited when Tanya of Cornbread and Honey reached out to me to collaborate! Tanya is an indie yarn dyer who has everything from fade kits to custom colorways to gradient cakes! She sent me a cake of gradient yarn to play with and from it came the Sweet Tea Shawl! The name of her shop Cornbread and Honey reminded me of another southern delicacy (at least to us southerners), sweet tea! Which is how I got the name for the design!
Tanya sent me this beautiful cake of gradient speckled brown yarn. It started off with a very dark, saturated brown and eventually turned into a very gorgeous speckled cream. This yarn was such fun to work with! It was a cake of 656 yards of sport weight yarn. The fiber is 80% super wash merino and 20% nylon. I absolutely love this fiber combo because the merino is so very soft, but the little bit of nylon gives it some sturdiness and makes it smooth on my hook and easy to work with. With the nylon I didn’t run into any pilling or splitting, which was so nice. I wet blocked my shawl after I completed it and the drape was SO amazing afterwards! This yarn is seriously one of the best yarns I’ve every tried!
The Sweet Tea Shawl is a triangle shawl that starts small and increases as you go. This shawl uses basic stitches, but the combination of them creates a stunning look! This is one of those patterns that doesn’t require gauge and that you can make as big or as small as you like! I love to wear it as a scarf around my neck but you can also make it large enough to wear over your shoulders.
I am so happy to have gotten the opportunity to try Tanya’s yarn. It is truly stunning and I plan on purchasing more!
Now through Sunday, January 27th you can use coupon code TWOBBCBH at checkout to get 50% off the Sweet Tea Shawl crochet pattern! Grab the pattern HERE!
You can use the very same code to get 20% off any yarn in the Cornbread and Honey shop! She even has the exact yarn I used for the Sweet Tea Shawl, as well as other gradients! This yarn is worth every penny!
Once I learned how to crochet, I wanted to make all the things! But I couldn’t read a pattern! I had learned how to crochet with YouTube videos and books, but crochet patterns scared me! What were all those abbreviations? What size was I supposed to do? Do crochet patterns even read left to right?! I had no idea! Eventually I figured it out myself, but it did take some time, and lots of trial of error! I want to save you all that trial and error and time! Today I’m going to share with your the very basics of how to read a pattern and you can also watch the live show I did on this topic below!
*Disclaimer- This step by step layout pertains to how my designs are laid out. Not every designer is going to have the same pattern layout or order, but this should give you an idea of what to look for and what each section means, regardless of where exactly it is in the pattern.
The First Page
The first page of a crochet pattern contains the most vital information. This is where you will find what materials you need, gauge, sizing, stitches used, and any pattern notes there are. Sometimes this will also continue on to the second part of the pattern, so be sure to read through the whole pattern before you start.
Materials- Here you will find exactly what you need to make the project.
Difficulty- This is the crochet experience you will need to make this project. (i.e.- beginner, intermediate, advanced)
Sizing & Yardage- Here is where you will figure out what size you are making and how much yarn you will need for it.
Pattern notes- Any additional instructions, tips, or information needed will be in this section.
Stitches Needed and Abbreviations- Here you will find what stitches are required in the project and what abbreviations will be used for them throughout the pattern.
Pattern Instructions
Once you’ve moved past the first page, you’ll come to the pattern instructions. Here is where you will start working. Most patterns will have a beginning section which will include how many chains to start with and sometimes a few beginning rows or rounds.
Most all patterns will be listed by either rows, rounds, or steps. Go through each one in their numerical sequence unless the pattern tells you otherwise. Each segment of the pattern will likely be in order of the way it should be worked up, unless the pattern tells you otherwise ahead of time. So work your way down the pattern until you get to the end.
Finishing
Most patterns will have a finishing section or an area that tells you what to do once you’ve completed all the steps. It may say “Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block if needed” or “Finish off and weave in all of your ends.” This will let you know that you have completed the pattern.
Additional Tips
Most of the time you will be able to find information on the designer in the pattern. There is usually a link to their website or shop and an email address. Do not be afraid to email the designer with questions if you’re struggling. Pattern support is part of being a designer and we want to help. Also, if you find an error within the pattern, and you are certain that it is a mistake, email the designer to let him/her know. That way they can fix it and send a pattern update.
You can watch the live show I did on this topic HERE.
I hope you find this article very helpful as you venture into pattern reading! Please feel free to comment below or email me with any questions you still have!
This post- Bombshell Sweater Crochet Pattern- may contain affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support!
I am so excited to finally share my first sweater pattern of 2019! This sweater is such a quick and easy, basic sweater! Everyone needs a basic sweater, right?! The Bombshell Sweater is so versatile and easily customizable to fit your preferences! I made mine as a cropped sweater, but it can also be made into a full length sweater! It is a top-down workup, using only 2 basic stitches, and no sewing!
I used one of my favorite yarns, Knit Pick Brava Sport, for this sweater. It’s lightweight and has a nice drape, making this sweater great for layering over a tank top! Knit Picks Brava Sport is currently my go-to sport weight yarn for garments. It’s soft and washes up very nicely. It’s 100% acrylic, which I like for a basic garment.
This post- Catherine Hat Free Crochet Pattern- may contain affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support!
The Catherine Hat is one of my very first crochet patterns! First came the Catherine Cowl, and I had to make a matching hat! Now, I’ve updated it to have a brim for a better fit and a more toque style hat. You can still make this into a slouchy by adding length if you want. Plus, I have added the old version to my Etsy shop so that you have both options available to you!
For the updated version, I used Lion Brand Yarn Vanna’s Choice yarn in Oatmeal. I just love this tweed colorway! It was perfect for this hat! Vanna’s choice is a great worsted weight yarn choice. It is very durable and holds up so well. The stitch definition is really nice as well.
You can purchase the ad-free, printable pdf version on Ravelry and Etsy!
Materials
100-175
yards worsted weight (#4) yarn
J(6.0mm) crochet hook
Scissors
Measuring tape
Tapestry needle
Pom pom (optional)
Difficulty
Intermediate
Gauge
7sc x 6 rows in the brim = 2”
Sizing
Toddler
18-20” head circumference
Child 20-21”
Teen/Small Adult 21-22”
Adult 22-23”
Pattern
Notes
Pattern is worked from the bottom up.
The starting chain does not count as first stitch unless stated otherwise within the pattern.
Pattern is written in toddler size with additional sizes in parentheses. Final stitch count for all sizes is in parentheses at the end of each row/round. If only one number in parentheses, that is the number of stitches for all sizes. 3rd loop hdc video tutorial: https://youtu.be/dE70DPCzLzM
Stitches
Needed & Abbreviations
st(s)- stitch(es)
ch(s)-
chain(s)
sc- single
crochet
hdc- half
double crochet
hdc2tog-
half double crochet 2 together
3rd
loop hdc- work an hdc in the 3rd loop of the hdc you are working
into.
dc- double
crochet
FPtc- front
post triple crochet
blo- back loop only
*- repeat from
Brim
Ch 9
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch
from hook and across. (8)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in blo of
each st across. (8)
Rows 3-60 (64, 68, 72): Repeat row
2. (8)
Slip stitch the ends together to
create a circle. Now turn the band to the other side, which will be your right
side. Do not fasten off. Continue to Body of Hat.
Body of Hat
Round 1: Ch 1, work 60 (64, 68,
72) hdc around the side of the brim, join to 1st st. (60, 64, 68,
72)
Rounds 2-3: Ch 1, 1 3rd
loop hdc in each st around, join to 1st st. (60, 64, 68, 72)
Rounds 4: Ch 3, skip 1st
2 sts, 1 FPtc around each of the next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around each of the 2 sts
skipped, *skip 2 sts, 1 FPtc around each of the next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around each
of the 2 sts skipped*, repeat from * around, join to 1st st. (60,
64, 68, 72)
Round 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st
around, join to 1st st. (60, 64, 68, 72)
Round 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in the blo of
each st around, join to 1st st. (60, 64, 68, 72)
Round 7: Ch 1, 1 hdc in the blo of
each st around, join to 1st st. (60, 64, 68, 72)
Rounds 8-13: Repeat rounds 2-7.
For teen and adult sizes repeat
rounds 2-5 one more time.
Round 14: Ch 1, (all in blo) 1 hdc
in 1st 2 sts, hdc2tog, *1 hdc in next 2 sts, hdc2tog*, repeat from *
around, join to 1st st. (45, 48, 51, 54)
Round 15: Ch 1, (all in blo) 1 hdc
in 1st st, hdc2tog, *1 hdc in next st, hdc2tog*, repeat from *
around, join to 1st st. (30, 32, 34, 36)
Round 16: Ch 1, (all in blo)
*hdc2tog*, repeat from * around, join to 1st st. (15, 16, 17, 18)
Fasten off leaving a long tail to
sew top shut. With tapestry needle, weave tail in and out of the stitches and
pull tight to close. Weave in ends.
This post- Ferguson Lap Blanket- Free crochet pattern- may contain affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support!
You can purchase the ad-free, printable pdf crochet pattern on Ravelry or Etsy!
The Ferguson Lap Blanket crochet pattern uses the same great textured stitch combo as the Ferguson Hat and the Ferguson Scarf. I just love this texture and the stitch combo is so easy and repetitive. It’s a wonderful project to work on in the car or while watching television.
I used two skeins ofLion Brand Yarn Pounhd of Love for my Ferguson Lap Blanket. It took me about a skein and a half to complete the measurements in the pattern. I loved using pound of love because you only have to add yarn once. The whole skein is 1020 yards!
Materials
1600-1700 yards worsted weight yarn
I (5.5mm) crochet hook
Scissors
Measuring tape
Tapestry needle
Difficulty
Easy
Gauge
14 sts = 4”
Sizing
35” x 40”
Pattern
Notes
Starting chain does not count as first st unless stated otherwise within the pattern.
Stitches
Needed & Abbreviations
st(s)- stitch(es)
ch(s)- chain(s)
fsc- chainless foundation single crochet
sc- single crochet
dc- double crochet
*- repeat from
Blanket
Row 1: FSC 120. (120)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, skip 1st
st, (sc, dc) in next st, *skip next st, (sc, dc) in next st*, repeat from *
across. (120)
Repeat row 2 until blanket reach
40” high or desired height.
Optional Trim
Single crochet around entire blanket, working 2 sc in each corner. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
This post- Camel Stitch Hat Free crochet pattern- may contain affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support!
The Camel Stitch Hat is such a great design, not only because of the awesome stitch, but also because it comes with 3 brim options! You can make this hat with a ribbed brim, as shown above, a front post brim, or a bonnet style brim with tassels! The camel stitch is also a really fun, textured stitch to use that works up fairly quick! I have a tutorial on how to do the camel stitch HERE.
The sample pictured above usesLion Brand Yarn Vanna’s Choice yarn. This is a yarn that I haven’t used much in the past but I really love the tweed yarn options that they have so when I want a good tweed, it is my go-to. This colorway that I used in the photos is called Grey Marble!
You can purchase the ad-free, printable pdf version of this pattern on Ravelry and Etsy!
Materials
175-300 yards worsted weight yarn in 1-2 colors.
H/8 5.0mm crochet hook
Scissors
Measuring tape
Tapestry needle
Pom pom maker (optional)
Difficulty
Easy
Gauge
16 hdc + 13 rows = 4”
Sizing
Toddler (18-20”) head circumference
Child (20-21”)
Adult (21-22”)
Pattern
Notes
Starting chain does not count as first stitch.
Hat is made from the bottom up with Brim added at the end.
Pattern is written in Toddler size with additional sizes in
parentheses as follows: Toddler (Child, Adult)
Join each round in both loops of the 1st st.
To avoid a seam, use a stitch marker and work continuously in the round without joining.
Stitches
Needed & Abbreviations
ch- chain(s)
st-stitch(es)
sc- single
crochet
hdc- half
double crochet
hdc 3rd
loop – half double crochet into the 3rd loop
hdc2tog-
half double crochet 2 together
dc- double
crochet
FPdc- front
post double crochet
BPdc- back
post double crochet
sl st- slipst
blo- back loop only
**- repeat what is insidethese symbols
Ribbed Brim (If doing this option start with your brim first- if doing another brim option start with Body of Hat.)
Ch 9
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch
from hook and across. (8)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in blo of
each st across. (8)
Rows 3-76 (80, 84): Repeat row 2.
(8)
Sew both ends of the brim togetherby slip stitching through both stitches across. Turn brim to the other side and continue to Body of Hat.
(For this brim option ch 1 and work sc around the side of the brim instead of chaining.)
Body of Hat
Ch 76 (80, 84), join to 1st
ch.
Round 1: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each ch
around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Round 2: Ch 1, 1 hdc 3rd
loop in each st around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Rounds 3- 18(20, 22): repeat round
2. Hat should be about 5.5” (6”, 7”) long at this point. Add more rounds if
needed.
Round 19 (21, 23): Ch 1, hdc 3rd
loop in 1st 2 st, hdc2tog 3rd loop, *1 hdc 3rd
loop in next 2 st, hdc2tog 3rd loop*, repeat around, join to 1st
st. (57, 60, 63)
Round 20 (22, 24): Ch 1, 1 hdc 3rd
loop in 1st st, hdc2tog 3rd loop, *1 hdc 3rd
loop in next, hdc2tog 3rd loop*, repeat around, join to 1st
st. (38, 40, 42)
Round 21 (23, 25): Ch 1, *hdc2tog
3rd loop*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (19, 20, 21)
Round 22 (24, 26): Ch 1, 1 hdc 3rd
loop in each st around, join to 1st st. (19, 20, 21)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to
close. Weave tail in and out of top stitches and pull tight to close. Fasten
off. Weave in ends.
Brim #2 (Bonnet Style with Tassels)
Join yarn with same color or a contrasting
color to the seam of your work at the bottom of the hat.
Working in both loops now:
Round 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st
around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in 1st
19 (20, 21) st, 1 dc in next 38 (40, 42) st, 1 sc in last 19 (20, 21) st, join
to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in 1st
19 (20, 21) st, *1 FPdc in next 2, 1 BPdc in next 2* for 38 (40, 42) st, 1 sc
in last 19 (20,21) st, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Rounds 4-5: Repeat round 3.
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in 1st
20 (21, 22) st, ch 40, sl st in each ch across, sc in next 36 (38, 40), ch 40,
sl st in each ch across, sc in last 20 (21, 22) st, join to 1st st.
(76, 80, 84- not counting sl st)
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Attach
a larger pom pom to the top of the hat and one smaller pom pom to each end of
the tassels.
Brim #3 (No Tassels)
Join yarn with same color or a
contrasting color to the seam of your work at the bottom of the hat.
Working in both loops now:
Round 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st
around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Round 2: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st
around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Round 3: Ch 2, 1 FPdc in 1st
st, 1 dc in next st, * 1 FPdc in next st, 1 dc in next st*, repeat around, join
to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Rounds 4-5: Repeat round 3.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Attacha larger pom pom to top of hat if desired.
The Crossroads Headband crochet pattern uses simple cable stitching to create a super cute headband! You can use any worsted weight yarn for this headband. I used Red Heart Soft yarn for the sample pictured above. It’s a true worsted weight with a slight shine to it that I really like.
The Crossroads Headband crochet pattern comes with instructions for just one size, but in the notes section it gives you instructions on how to adjust the length to fit anyone! Enjoy!
*I’ve just added a quick (on my phone quick) video tutorial! Go HERE to watch it!*
You can purchase the ad-free, printable PDF pattern on Ravelry or Etsy!
Materials
75-95 yards worsted weight yarn
I (5.5mm) crochet hook
Scissors
Measuring tape
Tapestry needle
One 1” button
Difficulty
Intermediate
Gauge
16 sts x 10 rows= 4” (Alternating sc and dc
rows.)
Sizing
20.5” x 3.75”
Pattern Notes
Starting chain does not count as first stitch unless stated
otherwise within the pattern.
You can adjust the length of the headband by either adding or
subtracting repeats of rows 13-24. You can also just add a few more sc rows of
12 sts before increasing and decreasing on each side, if you only need to add
or take away a little bit of length.
Work your Front Post stitches around the post or stitch 2 rounds below.
Stitches
Needed & Abbreviations
ch(s)- chain(s)
st(s)- stitch(es)
sc- single crochet
dc- double crochet
FPdc- front post double crochet
FPtc- front post triple crochet
sc2tog- single crochet 2 together
lch- long chain (pull up loop the length of a dc, ch 1)
Headband
Ch 2
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch
from hook. (1 sc)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next
st. (2 sc)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next
and across. (4 sc)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in
next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st. (6 sc)
Row 5: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in 1st
st, 1 sc in next st and each st across to last st, 2 sc in last. (8 sc)
Rows 6-7: Repeat row 5. (12 sc)
Row 8: lch, 1 dc in each st
across. (12 dc)
Row 9: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 4
sts, 1 FPdc around next 4 sts, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)
Row 10: repeat row 8. (
Row 11: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first
4 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around 2 skipped
stitches, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)
Row 12: repeat row 8.
Row 13: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first
4 sts, 1 FPtc around next 4 sts, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)
Row 14: repeat row 8.
Row 15: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first
3 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts,
1 sc in last 3 sts. (12)
Row 16: repeat row 8.
Row 17: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 2 sts, 1 FPtc around
next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts.
(12)
Row 18: repeat row 8.
Row 19: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first
3 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts,
1 sc in last 3 sts. (12)
Row 20: repeat row 8.
Row 21: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 4 sts, 1 FPtc around
next 4 sts, 1 sc in next 4 sts. (12)
Row 22: repeat row 8.
Row 23: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first
4 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around 2 sts skipped,
1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)
Row 24: repeat row 8.
Repeat rows 13-24 two more times.
Row 25: ch 1, turn, 1 in first 4
sts, 1 FPdc around next 4 sts, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)
Row 26: Repeat row 8.
Row 27: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, 1 sc
in next 8 sts, sc2tog. (10)
Row 28: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, 1 sc
in next 6 sts, sc2tog. (8)
Row 29: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, 1 sc
in next 4 sts, sc2tog. (6)
Row 30: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, 1 sc
in next 2 sts, sc2tog. (4)
Row 31: Ch 1 turn, sc in 1st
st, ch 2, skip 2, sc in last st. (2)
Finishing
Ch 1, turn, sc evenly around
entire headband (including the ch 2 from row 31), join to 1st st.
Fasten off. Attach button to beginning end with yarn and tapestry needle. Weave in all ends.
I love the camel stitch! It is such a fun stitch to create! It creates great texture, which I love, and it almost has a knitted look to it! Best of all, it’s super easy! If you know the basic stitches of crochet, you will be able to figure this one out too!
This video tutorial is made by me, so it’s a left-handed tutorial, but the workup is the exact same thing for a right-handed crocheter. You’ll just be going in the opposite direction as I am in the video.
If you want to see more tutorial videos, let me know what you would like to see below in the comments! Be sure to give my video a thumbs up and subscribe to my channel as well!
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