The Little Textures Baby Skirt makes an adorable photo prop or addition to your favorite onesie or outfit! There are instructions for newborn size to 24 months below! Your little one will look beautiful in this skirt, handmade by you!

 

Materials

• Worsted weight yarn
• I hook or hook to obtain gauge
• Darning needle for weaving in ends

Difficulty

•  Easy

Gauge

• 8 sc and 8 rows = 2” square

Sizing

• Newborn 14-16” waist, 7” length
• 3 months 15-18” waist, 7.5” length
• 6 months 16-19” waist, 8” length
•  12 months 17-20” waist,9” length
• 18 months 17-20” waist, 9.5” length
• 24 months 18-21” waist, 9.5” length

 

Pattern Notes

Chain stitch does not count as first stitch for sc rounds, but does count as first stitch for hdc and dc rounds.
This pattern is easy to customize. To customize the length just do more or less repeats of the texture rounds.
Sizing is listed as so: Newborn ( 3m, 6m, 12m, 18m, 24m).

Stitches Needed & Abbreviations

ch- chain
sc- single crochet
hdc- half double crochet
lhdc- long half double crochet- half double crochet over chain 1 into the skipped stitch from the previous round.
dc- double crochet
fsc- chainless foundation single crochet http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Crochet-Videos/Howto-Crochet-a-Chainless-Foundation
blo- back loop only
** – repeat what is in these symbols

Newborn

Work 56 fsc, join to 1st stitch.
Round 1: Ch 1, hdc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join to 1st st. (56)
Rounds 2-4: Repeat Round 1. (56)
Round 5: Ch 1, *sc in blo of next 6 stitches, 2 sc in blo of next*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (64)
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1st stitch), *ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (32)
Round 7: Ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch), lhdc over previous row’s ch 1, *ch 1, lhdc*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (32)
Round 8: Ch 1 (does not count as 1st stitch), *sc in next 6, 2 sc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (72)
Round 9: Ch 3 (counts as 1st stitch), *ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (36)
Round 10: Ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch), lhdc over previous row’s ch 1, *ch 1, lhdc*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (32)
Round 11: Ch 1 (does not count as 1st stitch), sc in each stitch around, join to 1st stitch. (72)
Repeat rounds 9-11 five more times. Move to Trim.

3 months

Work 60 fsc, join to 1st stitch.
Round 1: Ch 1, hdc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join to 1st st. (60)
Rounds 2-4: Repeat Round 1. (60)
Round 5: Ch 1, *sc in blo of next 5 stitches, 2 sc in blo of next*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (70)
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1st stitch), *ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (35)
Round 7: Ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch), *lhdc over previous row’s ch 1, *ch 1, lhdc*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (35)
Round 8: Ch 1 (does not count as 1st stitch), *sc in next 8, 2 sc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (80)
Round 9: Ch 3 (counts as 1st stitch), *ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (40)
Round 10: Ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch), *lhdc over previous row’s ch 1, *ch 1, lhdc*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (40)
Round 11: Ch 1 (does not count as 1st stitch), sc in each stitch around, join to 1st stitch. (40)
Repeat rounds 9-11 six more times or to desired length, ending with round 11. Move to Trim.

6 months

Work 64 fsc, join to 1st stitch.
Round 1: Ch 1, hdc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join to 1st st. (64)
Rounds 2-4: Repeat Round 1. (64)
Round 5: Ch 1, *sc in blo of next 6 stitches, 2 sc in blo of next*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (72)
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1st stitch), *ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (36)
Round 7: Ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch), lhdc over previous row’s ch 1, *ch 1, lhdc*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (36)
Round 8: Ch 1 (does not count as 1st stitch), *sc in next 8, 2 sc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (80)
Round 9: Ch 3 (counts as 1st stitch), *ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (40)
Round 10: Ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch), *lhdc over previous row’s ch 1, *ch 1, lhdc*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (40)
Round 11: Ch 1 (does not count as 1st stitch), sc in each stitch around, join to 1st stitch. (80)
Repeat rounds 9-11 eight more times or to desired length, ending with round 11. Move to Trim.

12 months

Work 70 fsc, join to 1st stitch.
Round 1: Ch 1, hdc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join to 1st st. (70)
Rounds 2-4: Repeat Round 1. (70)
Round 5: Ch 1, *sc in blo of next 6 stitches, 2 sc in blo of next*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (80)
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1st stitch), *ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (40)
Round 7: Ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch), *lhdc over previous row’s ch 1, *ch 1, lhdc*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (40)
Round 8: Ch 1 (does not count as 1st stitch), *sc in next 7, 2 sc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (90)
Round 9: Ch 3 (counts as 1st stitch), *ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (45)
Round 10: Ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch), *lhdc over previous row’s ch 1, *ch 1, lhdc*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (45)
Round 11: Ch 1 (does not count as 1st stitch), sc in each stitch around, join to 1st stitch. (90)
Repeat rounds 9-11 nine more times or to desired length, ending with round 11. Move to Trim.

18 months

Work 70 fsc, join to 1st stitch.
Round 1: Ch 1, hdc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join to 1st st. (70)
Rounds 2-4: Repeat Round 1. (70)
Round 5: Ch 1, *sc in blo of next 6 stitches, 2 sc in blo of next*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (80)
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1st stitch), *ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (40)
Round 7: Ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch), *lhdc over previous row’s ch 1, *ch 1, lhdc*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (40)
Round 8: Ch 1 (does not count as 1st stitch), *sc in next 7, 2 sc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (90)
Round 9: Ch 3 (counts as 1st stitch), *ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (45)
Round 10: Ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch), lhdc over previous row’s ch 1, *ch 1, lhdc*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (45)
Round 11: Ch 1 (does not count as 1st stitch), sc in each stitch around, join to 1st stitch. (90)
Repeat rounds 9-11 ten more times or to desired length, ending with round 11. Move to Trim.

24 months

Work 72 fsc, join to 1st stitch.
Round 1: Ch 1, hdc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join to 1st st. (72)
Rounds 2-4: Repeat Round 1. (72)
Round 5: Ch 1, *sc in blo of next 7 stitches, 2 sc in blo of next*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (81)
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1st stitch), *ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (40)
Round 7: Ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch), *lhdc over previous row’s ch 1, *ch 1, lhdc*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (40)
Round 8: Ch 1 (does not count as 1st stitch), *sc in next 7, 2 sc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (90)
Round 9: Ch 3 (counts as 1st stitch), *ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (45)
Round 10: Ch 1 (counts as 1st stitch), *lhdc over previous row’s ch 1, *ch 1, lhdc*, repeat around, join to 1st stitch. (45)
Round 11: Ch 1 (does not count as 1st stitch), sc in each stitch around, join to 1st stitch. (45)
Repeat rounds 9-11 ten more times or to desired length, ending with round 11. Move to Trim.

Trim Option 1 (single crochet)

If you are using a different color for your trim, finish off at the end of round 11 and weave in your ends. Join new color to backside of skirt.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join to 1st stitch.
Round 2: Repeat round 1. Finish off.

Trim Option 2 (ruffles)

If you are using a different color for your trim, finish off at the end of round 11 and weave in your ends. Join new color to backside of skirt.
Round 1: Ch 3, work 2 more dc in same stitch, 3 dc in next stitch and in each stitch around. Join to top of chain 3. Finish off. Weave in ends.
To make a tie, chain to about the length and a half of your waistline, knot on both ends. Use your hook to weave it through the stitches of the waistband.

This post may contain affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! 

We are gearing up for the Edgewater Sweater Dress crochet pattern release and CAL, starting on November 12th! The Edgewater Sweater Dress is made with Lion Brand Yarns Jeans yarn and seriously has the best texture ever! The fit is very flattering for any shape or size, with lots of positive ease! The pattern comes in children’s sizes 2-10 and women’s sizes XS-2X!

To join the CAL go HERE!

I’m giving away 2 copies of the pattern each day leading up to the release and today I’m giving them away right here on the blog!!

To enter: Just leave a comment below! Let me know what you think of the Edgewater Sweater Dress, who you plan to make it for, or if you’ll be joining the CAL and making one with the group!

Two winners will be drawn at random on the morning of November 12th, just before the release! Good luck!

The Ava Boot Cuffs are so simple and quick to make! The pattern comes in sizes toddler to women’s XL! These boot cuffs make wonderful gifts or items to sell at markets!

Purchase the ad-free PDF pattern HERE.

Ava Boot Cuffs

Materials

• Worsted Weight Yarn
• H hook (5.00mm)
• Measuring Tape
• Scissors
• Darning needle
• One or two small buttons (optional)

Difficulty

• Beginner

Gauge

• Rows 1-4 of cuff = 2”

Sizing

Measure at largest part of calf.

• Toddler (7-9”)
• XS ( 9-11”)
• S (11-13”)
• M (13-16”)
• L (17-19”)
• XL (19-21”)

Pattern Notes

Starting chain does not count as first stitch unless otherwise stated within the pattern.

Make two to make one set of boot cuffs.

 

Stitches Needed & Abbreviations

ch- chain

sc- single crochet

dc- double crochet

sl st- slip stitch

st- stitch

Toddler Cuff (7-9”)

Row 1: Ch 7, turn, sc in 2^nd stitch from hook and in each stitch across. (6)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1^st dc), turn, dc in next stitch and in each stitch across. (6)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across. (6)

Rows 4-16: repeat rows 2 and 3 ending with row 2.

Now sl st row 1 and row 16 together.  Move to rounds.

Rounds

With right side facing you: (sl st will be on the inside/wrong side)

Round 1: Ch 2, dc evenly around cuff for 28 stitches, join to 1^st st. (28)

Round 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, join to 1^st st. (28)

Rounds 3-5: repeat round 2.

Finish off. Weave in ends.

X-Small Cuff (9-11”)

Row 1: Ch 7, turn, sc in 2^nd stitch from hook and in each stitch across. (6)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1^st dc), turn, dc in next stitch and in each stitch across. (6)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across. (6)

Rows 4-20: repeat rows 2 and 3 ending with row 2.

Now sl st row 1 and row 20 together.  Move to rounds.

Rounds

With right side facing you: (sl st will be on the inside/wrong side)

Round 1: Ch 2, dc evenly around cuff for 30 stitches, join to 1^st st. (30)

Round 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, join to 1^st st. (30)

Rounds 3-5: repeat round 2.

Finish off. Weave in ends.

Small Cuff (11-13”)

Row 1: Ch 7, turn, sc in 2^nd stitch from hook and in each stitch across. (6)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1^st dc), turn, dc in next stitch and in each stitch across. (6)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across. (6)

Rows 4-24: repeat rows 2 and 3 ending with row 2.

Now sl st row 1 and row 24 together.  Move to rounds.

Rounds

With right side facing you: (sl st will be on the inside/wrong side)

Round 1: Ch 2, dc evenly around cuff for 36 stitches, join to 1^st st. (36)

Round 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, join to 1^st st. (36)

Rounds 3-6: repeat round 2.

Finish off. Weave in ends.

Medium Cuff (13-16”)

Row 1: Ch 7, turn, sc in 2^nd stitch from hook and in each stitch across. (6)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1^st dc), turn, dc in next stitch and in each stitch across. (6)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across. (6)

Rows 4-28: repeat rows 2 and 3 ending with row 2.

Now sl st row 1 and row 28 together.  Move to rounds.

Rounds

With right side facing you: (sl st will be on the inside/wrong side)

Round 1: Ch 2, dc evenly around cuff for 42 stitches, join to 1^st st. (42)

Round 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, join to 1^st st. (42)

Rounds 3-6: repeat round 2.

Finish off. Weave in ends.

Large Cuff (17-19”)

Row 1: Ch 7, turn, sc in 2^nd stitch from hook and in each stitch across. (6)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1^st dc), turn, dc in next stitch and in each stitch across. (6)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across. (6)

Rows 4-34: repeat rows 2 and 3 ending with row 2.

Now sl st row 1 and row 34 together.  Move to rounds.

Rounds

With right side facing you: (sl st will be on the inside/wrong side)

Round 1: Ch 2, dc evenly around cuff for 51 stitches, join to 1^st st. (51)

Round 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, join to 1^st st. (51)

Rounds 3-6: repeat round 2.

Finish off. Weave in ends.

 

X-Large Cuff (19-21”)

Row 1: Ch 7, turn, sc in 2^nd stitch from hook and in each stitch across. (6)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1^st dc), turn, dc in next stitch and in each stitch across. (6)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across. (6)

Rows 4-42: repeat rows 2 and 3 ending with row 2.

Now sl st row 1 and row 42 together.  Move to rounds.

Rounds

With right side facing you: (sl st will be on the inside/wrong side)

Round 1: Ch 2, dc evenly around cuff for 60 stitches, join to 1^st st. (60)

Round 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around, join to 1^st st. (60)

Rounds 3-7: repeat round 2.

Finish off. Weave in ends.

Wear as is or add a button embellishment by sewing on one or two buttons to the top of the boot cuffs.

Pattern is a copyright of Two Brothers Blankets. Please do not share, sell, or alter in any way.

 

My Christian faith is a huge part of my life. The most important part of my life, actually. Without it, I wouldn’t be the person I am today. So when I was approached about running a crochet-a-long group for Christian crocheters I was so excited and honored!

The Group

The Christian Crochet-a-Longs group will be for Christian crocheters to discuss their faith freely, and to work together to create crocheted items to love and help others in any way we can. I will be designing 1 to 2 patterns a month for this group. Designs created for the CAL will be items that can be made to gift to others, encourage others, and donate to those in need. This group will not only be for Christian fellowship but also a type of outreach. We will crochet together to love God and love others, as He has called us to.

I realize this group will not be for everybody, and if it’s not something you are interested in, please just disregard this post. But if this is something that interests you, we would absolutely love to have you join!

The First CAL

Our first project is a small starter project. The Sweet Blessings Bible Cover would make a wonderful gift to someone in your church, a friend from Bible study, or just to make for your own bible or journal. This pattern uses the corner to corner technique and comes with step by step photos for you to follow as you go.

This first CAL will be a short 2.5 week one. We will finish it up on November 2nd and start the next one on November 5th. Members can view sneak peeks of the new project will be posted in the group in the days to come!

I am so excited to see how God works in this new group! I feel sure relationships will be formed, prayers will be answered, and we will have an amazing opportunity to love and serve others!

This is my command; Love each other. John 15: 17

This post may contain affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales. Thank you for your continued support! 

After I published the Brimstone Cowl crochet pattern, I started getting requests for a cowl to match.  So I bought some more Lion Brand Yarn Jeans yarn and got started!

The Brimstone Cowl uses only one skein of Lion Brand Jeans yarn or about 246 yards of a light worsted weight yarn. It’s a fun workup with different stitch combos for each round, so you’ll never get bored with this one!

The Brimstone Cowl is currently 50% off through Sunday, October 14, 2018. No code is needed. The discount has already been applied. Go HERE to purchase.

The Bonnie Bell Baby Bonnet is great for newborns and infants! It makes an adorable prop for photographs or they can be worn as an added layer to keep your little one warm! The Bonnie Bell Baby Bonnet crochet pattern has instructions for newborn to toddler sizes.

 

Bonnie Bell Baby Bonnet 

Materials Needed

48-140 yards light worsted weight (#4) yarn

I Hook (5.5mm)

Measuring tape

Darning needle for weaving in ends

Stitches Needed and Abbreviations

sc-Single Crochet

dc- Double Crochet

Ch- Chain

st- Stitch

sl st- slip stitch

CDC- Cross Double Crochet Stich (skip stitch, 1 DC in next two stitches, then working over the DC’s just made DC into the skipped stitch) One CDC is worked in a total of 3 stitches.

*- repeat from

Pattern Notes

Gauge is listed at the beginning of each size.

Starting chain does not count as first stitch unless otherwise stated.

Size Chart:

Newborn: 12-13” circumference, approximately 5” x 5”

0-3 Months: 13-14” circumference, approximately 6” x 6”

3-6 Months: 14-16” circumference, approximately 6” x 6.5”

6-12 Months: 16-18” circumference, approximately 6.5” x 6.5”

Bonnet is measured top to bottom by  front to back.

Newborn (5″ x 5″)

Gauge: After round 4 your circle should measure 4.25”.

Create a MC.

Round 1: Ch 2,  10 dc in circle, pull tight, join to first st. (10 st)

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, join to first st. (20 st)

Round 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next*, repeat from * around, join to first st. (30 st)

Round 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 2, * 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st*, repeat from * around, join to first st. (40 st)

Row 5: Ch 2, dc in next 35 stitches leaving 5 stitches unworked, do not join. (35 st)

Row 6: Ch 2, turn, skip first stitch (same stitch as ch 2), 1 dc in next 2 st, working across the 2 dcs just made dc into the skipped stitch, (You have now completed your first CDC), *work CDC over the next 3 stitches*, repeat from * around, on the last CDC you will have to work the second dc into the previous row’s beginning ch st.  (12 CDC st)

Rows 7-9: Repeat row 6.

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st around (36 sc)

From the last sc ch 30. In 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc into each ch st going back up to the bonnet. Join with a sc to the sc you started at.

Sc around the side and back of the bonnet working all the way to the other side.

From there ch 30. In 2nd ch from hook,  3 sc into each ch st going back up to the bonnet. Join with a sc to the sc you started at.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

0-3M (6″ x 6″)

Gauge: After round 5 your circle should be 5”.

Create a MC.

Round 1: Ch 2, 10 dc in circle, pull tight, join to first st. (10 st)

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, join to first st. (20 st)

Round 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next*, repeat from * around, join to first st. (30 st)

Round 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 2, * 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st*, repeat from * around, join to first st. (40 st)

Round 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 7 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 7 st*, repeat from * around, join to first st. (45 st)

Row 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in the next 39 stitches, leaving 6 stitches unworked, do not join. (39 st)

Row 7: Ch 2, turn, skip first stitch (same stitch as ch 2), 1 dc in next 2 st, working across the 2 dcs just made dc into the skipped stitch, (You have now completed your first CDC) *work CDC into the next 3 stitches*, repeat from * around. (13 CDC)

Rows 8-11: Repeat row 7.

Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around (39 st)

From there, ch 35, in 2nd  ch from hook 3 sc in each ch st back up to the bonnet, join with sc to beginning sc.

SC around the side and back all the way to the other side of the bonnet.

From there, ch 35, in 2^nd ch from hook 3 sc in each ch st back up to the bonnet, join with sc to beginning sc.

Finish off, weave in ends.

3-6m (6″ x 6.5″)

Gauge: After round 5 your circle should measure 5.25”

Create a MC, CH 2

Round 1:  10 dc in circle, pull tight, join to first st. (10 st)

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, join to first st. (20 st)

Round 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next*, repeat ** around, join to first st. (30 st)

Round 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 2, * 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st*, repeat ** around, join to first st. (40 st)

Round 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 3 st, * 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 st*, repeat ** around, join to firs st. (50 st)

Row 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in the next 45 stitches, leaving 5 stitches unworked, do not join. (45 st)

Row 7: Ch 2, turn, skip first stitch (same stitch as ch 2), 1 dc in next 2 st, working across the 2 dcs just made dc into the skipped stitch, (You have now completed your first CDC) *work CDC into the next 3 stitches*, repeat ** around. (15 CDC)

Rows 8-13: repeat row 7

Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st around (45 st)

From there ch 40. Starting in 2^nd ch from hook, work 3 sc in each ch, back up to the bonnet, join with sc to beginning sc.

SC around the side and back of the bonnet to the other side of the bonnet.

From there ch 40, work 3 sc in each ch, back up to the bonnet, join with sc to beginning sc.

Finish off, weave in ends.

6-12 months (6.5″ x 6.5″)

Gauge: After round 6 your circle should be 6.25”.

Create a MC, ch 2.

Round 1: 10 dc in circle, pull tight, join to first st. (10 st)

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, join to first st. (20 st)

Round 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next*, repeat **around, join to first st. (30 st)

Round 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 2, * 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st*,
repeat ** around, join to first st. (40 st)

Round 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 3 st, * 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 st*,repeat ** around, join to first st. (50 st)

Round 6: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 9 st, * 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 9 st*,repeat ** around, join to first st. (55 st)

Round 7: Ch 2, 1 dc in next 48 stitches, leaving the last 7 stitches unworked. (48 st)

Row 8: Ch 2, turn, skip first stitch (same stitch as ch 2), 1 dc in next 2 st, working across the 2 dcs just made dc into the skipped stitch,(You have now completed your first CDC) *work CDC into the next 3 stitches*, repeat ** around. (16 CDC)

Rows 9 -15 : Repeat row 8

Row 16: Ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch around. (48 st)

From there ch 45, work 3 sc in each ch, back up to the bonnet, join with sc to beginning
sc.
SC around the side and back of the bonnet to the other side of the bonnet.
From there ch 45, work 3 sc in each ch, back up to the bonnet, join with sc to beginning
sc.
Finish off, weave in ends.

I hope you enjoy the Bonnie Bell Baby Bonnet crochet pattern! Be on the lookout for the Bonnie Bell Baby Legwarmers coming to the blog very soon!

 

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This pattern is a copyright of Two Brothers Blankets. Please do not copy, share, sell, or alter in any way. You may use the pattern to sell finished items but please link back to this post for pattern credit.

This post may contain affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales. Thank you for your continued support! 

I’m excited to share a brand new crochet pattern that I’ve just released! The Crossroads Scarf is a unisex scarf that uses simple cable stitches to give it a nice, sophisticated look!

The Crossroads Scarf is the second pattern in the Crossroads collection. The first pattern is the Crossroads Sweater which is a beautiful, top-down sweater with the same elegant cable work. I used Lion Brand Yarn Heartland yarn for both and it worked up beautifully!

The Crossroads Scarf crochet pattern comes with step by step written and photo instructions for you to use as you work up the scarf. And as always, I am available daily for pattern support. The Crossroads Scarf is currently 50% off through Sunday, October 7, 2018 HERE. You don’t need a coupon code. The discount has already been applied. Enjoy!

Subscribe to this blog via email to never miss a sale or new release! Just scroll down to the bottom of this page and insert your email into the form!

Fall is such a fun time of year for crocheters! This is when it is so fun to crochet because the weather is cool and the projects are cozy! Today I am sharing a fall roundup of my five favorite crochet patterns right now! And they are all free!

Lacy Cozy Cowl by Maria’s Blue Crayon

I love the look of this cowl! Even though it uses a worsted weight yarn, it genuinely looks lacy and light! I love the Caron Cake colors she used too! They are the perfect neutrals!

Rainier Sweater by Sewrella

I am loving this sweater! The collar is so cute! I love the ribbed trim also! It looks like the perfect top to cozy up next to someone special in front of a campfire!

Lansdowne Toque by Sincerely Pam

This hat is super cute, super easy, and super quick! What more could you ask for in a great fall hat?!

The Dude Blanket by Two Brothers Blankets

I know I’m slightly bias on this one, but I’m telling you, it’s perfect for all! It’s one of those blankets that you can cozy up underneath it as you make it! And the stitches are repetitive and easy so you can mindlessly crochet while you binge watch your favorite Netflix show!

Laetus Cowl by Joy of Motion

Another design made with bulky yarn, making it a quick project! It looks so warm and cozy! I think this one would make a great gift as well!

 

So those are my five favorite free crochet patterns for fall! (Say that 5 times fast!) Which one is your favorite? Have you made any of these yet? Leave me a comment and let me know!

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Gauge is a word you have probably heard if you crochet, even if you are just starting out. In the crocheting world, gauge is a swatch of stitches that you measure to determine what hook size to use for a particular pattern. You want to get the exact same amount of stitches that the designer got within the specified measurements so your project comes out to be the same size as the original.

Why is gauge so important?

Gauge is important because, just like every person writes differently, every person crochets differently. We hold our hook different and have different tension. Some of us use different kinds of yarn and crochet hooks that can make a huge difference in the size of our stitches. If the size of our stitches are not the same as the designer’s stitches, our project is going to come out in a completely different size than the original measurements.

For example, if one of my garment designs has 16 stitches within 4″.  But you get 15 stitches within 4″. That’s going to be a 10 stitch difference for every 4″!  Your garment definitely will not fit the same way as mine does.

How do I check gauge?

Checking gauge is actually pretty simple. To start, look at the materials section of you pattern. Find out what size  yarn and what size crochet hook is recommended. You will also need a measuring tape. Once you have the appropriate yarn and hook, check the gauge section.  I personally try to create a 4″ square for my gauge swatches. So in my gauge section it will usually say something like 14 dc x 8 rows= 4″.  Other designers might do a 2″ x 2″ square or also have measurements for in the round. It just depends on the designer.

So to start, work up the square and measure it. If you get a perfect 4″x4″ square, then you are using the correct hook!

Your square is most definitely NOT 4″x4″ you say? That’s ok! So here’s how I remember what to do:

• If it’s too big, go down.
• If it’s too small, go up.

Let me explain. If your square is bigger than 4″x4″ then you need to go down a hook size, maybe two! Try it with the next hook size down from what you just used. And continue to work your way down until you get that perfect 4″ square.

If the square is small than 4″x 4″ then you need to go up a hook size.  Keep trying a hook size larger until you get that 4″ square.

What if I can’t seem to meet gauge?

Having trouble getting that exact 4″ square? That’s OK. Don’t panic. In most cases, I find that width is going to be more important than height. So if you’re getting 4″ across but 5″ tall, go with that hook size. You can always add or take away rows/rounds to get the length you want, but if the width is off, your project is going to be too big or too small around. If you can’t seem to get exactly 4″ across no matter what hook size you use, I would suggest maybe trying another yarn. If that’s not an option, use the hook that gets you the very closest to 4″.

Do I have to check gauge every single time?

In most cases, yes. Especially when making garments, hats, or specific sized blankets and scarves. But in some cases, like when making a scarf, you can usually just get by with measuring at the beginning of your project to make sure you are getting the correct width or at least close to it. A scarf usually isn’t going to look terrible if it comes out a little bigger or smaller than the original version.

Also, I’d recommend writing your hook size and yarn choice on the top of your pattern for when you come back to it or make it again. Even then, I’d at least do a quick width check each time you make a new project because your tension often changes over time. I used to crochet so tight when I was just beginning, but now I crochet much looser. So I often have to check gauge even if it is something I have made once before. You’d be surprised how many times I’ve had to change my hook size from when I originally made it.

My Real Talk Tuesday Live Segment on Gauge:

So as you can see, gauge is pretty important. Checking gauge may seem like a waste of time, especially when you are so ready to get started on a project, but in the long run it can really save time. The most frustrating thing ever is to get well into a project and realize it’s 2 times too big!

If you have any questions about gauge please feel free to leave them in the comments and I will answer them to the best of my ability! For more great tips on making garments and getting the best fit check out this post: Crocheting Garments- Tips to a Great Fit! 

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The La Maille Hat is a matching accessory to the La Maille (the ladder) sweater! Both items have a distressed look to them created by a combination of stitches and chain spaces. The La Maille Hat now comes in three sizes: toddler, child, and adult!

I used Knit Picks Brava Sport for this project. I love the definition it gives to the stitches and it’s very nice to work with!

You can purchase the ad-free pdf pattern HERE.

Materials

• 140-176 yards sport (#2) weight yarn
• H (5.0mm) crochet hook
• Scissors
• Measuring tape
• Tapestry needle

Difficulty

• Intermediate

Gauge

• 15 herr-dc x 11 rows = 4”

Sizing

• Toddler – 18-19” head circumference
• Child- 19-20”
• Adult 21-22”

Pattern Notes

Starting chain does not count as first st unless stated otherwise within the pattern.

Hat size will be slightly smaller than head circumference, but the hat is very stretchy and should be fitted around the head.

Pattern is worked from the bottom up.

Pattern is worked in toddler size with child and adult sizes in parentheses. Final stitch count for all sizes will be in parentheses at the end of each round.

Stitches Needed & Abbreviations

fsc- chainless foundation single crochet

ch(s)- chain(s)

st(s)- stitch(es)

sc- single crochet

blo- back loop only

herr-dc- herringbone double crochet

herr-dc2tog- herringbone double crochet 2 together

Stitch Dictionary

herr-dc- yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch and one loop, yarn over, pull through one loop, yarn over, pull through both loops.

herr-dc2tog- yarn over, insert hook into st, yarn over, pull through st and 1st loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 1 loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into next st, yarn over, pull through st and 1st loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 1 loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.

Hat

Round 1: FSC 68 (72, 78), join to 1^st st. (68, 72, 78 sts)

Rounds 2-3: Ch 1, 1 sc in blo of each st around, join to 1^st st. (68, 72, 78 sts)

Round 4: Ch 2, 1 herr-dc in 1^st 16 (18, 18), ch 6, skip 6 sts, 1 herr-dc in next 24 (24, 30) sts, ch 6, skip 6 sts, 1 herr-dc in last (16, 18, 18) sts, join to 1^st st. (56, 60, 66 sts)

Repeat round 4 until entire hat measures 8” (8.5”, 9”) long.

Round 5: Ch 2, 1 herr-dc in 1^st 16 (18, 18) sts, 3 herr-dc around ch-6 space, 1 herr-dc in next 24 (24, 30) sts, 3 herr-dc around ch-6 space, 1 herr-dc in last 16 (16, 18) sts, join to 1^st st. (62, 66, 72 sts)

Round 6 (Toddler and Child): Ch 2, 1 herr-dc2tog, 1 herr-dc in next 58 (62) sts, 1 herr-dc2tog, join to 1^st st. (60, 64)

Round 6 (Adult): Ch 2, 1 herr-dc in each st around, join to 1^st st. (72)

Round 7: Ch 2, 1 herr-dc in 1^st 2 sts, herr-dc2tog, *1 herr-dc in 1^st 2 sts, herr-dc2tog*, repeat from * around, join to 1^st st. (45, 48, 54)

Round 8: Ch 2, 1 herr-dc in 1^st st, herr-dc2tog, *1 herr-dc in 1^st st, herr-dc2tog*, repeat from * around, join to 1^st st. (30, 32, 36)

Round 9: Ch 2, *herr-dc2tog*, repeat from * around, join to 1^st st. (15, 16, 18)

Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing top closed.

Using tapestry needle, weave the long tail in and out of the open stitches at the top of hat and pull tight. Weave in all ends.