The Extended Single Crochet stitch is one of my favorite stitches. It it simple like the regular single crochet stitch but has a bit more height and stretch than the regular sc. I have used the esc stitch in a number of my patterns, including the Parker Baseball Tee and the KJ hat. I also use this stitch in an upcoming pattern, the Springtime Sweater.
I’ve created a video tutorial for this stitch to help you while you make these patterns or any other projects. I am left-handed, but the steps are still the same. Right-handed crocheters will just be going in the opposite direction when working their yarn.
Written instructions:
ESC: insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), yarn over and pull through one loops (2 loops on your hook), yarn over and pull through both loops.
Video Tutorial:
I hope this tutorial is helpful! You can find my other left-handed crochet tutorials HERE. Let me know what other stitch tutorials you would like to see!
I am an independent crochet pattern designer. Which means, I design and write crochet patterns! I self publish my patterns independently. I’ve been doing this designing thing for 5 years now, and it’s the best! But there are a lot of things that people don’t understand about my job. So in my Wednesday live (1pm est on Instagram every Wed!) show, I shared 10 things that you may or may now know about being an Independent Pattern Designer! Hope you enjoy! If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment below!
1. It’s fun!
I get to use my creativity for a living! It’s a blast! I get to crochet and challenge myself and learn new things! I get to express myself every day! Being an independent pattern designer is so fun!
2. There is a LOT of math involved!
I hated math so much when I was growing up and was so certain that I would not have a job that required me to do math on a regular basis. Boy, was I wrong! Being a crochet pattern designer requires using math every single day. Grading sizes and even just figuring out stitches requires math! So I use math all the time! So much math! I still hate the actual math, but I love designing so much that I get over it and do it.
3.It looks different for everyone.
The designing process is different for everyone. There’s not really a right or wrong way to do things when you design. There are standards, yes, which you can find at www.craftyarncouncil.com, but each step is done differently by each designer. I personally don’t sketch out any of my designs before I create them. They just go straight from my head to my hook. Many designers, however, do sketch out their designs. Some designers work up samples of a bunch of different designs and then type them all up afterwards. I have to do one sample at a time, and immediately go type it up. Otherwise I get overwhelmed. The entire process is different for each person, which is what makes designing so amazing!
4.There are a lot of us!
There are a lot of crochet pattern designers! Just scroll the hashtag #crochet on Instagram for a few minutes! I’m certain there are a lot of knitting designers and sewing designers as well! But you know what? That’s okay! Every person has something amazing to bring to the world! Everyone! You, me, and everyone else! So that means each and every independent pattern designer has something amazing to bring to their craft! We all have different styles. We all excel in different parts of the craft. Some of us are better at written patterns, some are better at video tutorials! We all bring something great to this world!
5. We make mistakes!
Independent Pattern Designers are human! We miss things. I’ve had a pattern tested and tech edited and still managed to publish it with a mistake in it! It happens. We don’t like when it happens, but it does. So if you find a mistake in a pattern, please just politely reach out and let us know. I promise we will be happy to fix it!
6.It’s a SLOW process!
From the initial idea to release day, the process can be slow! Also growing as an independent pattern designer can be slow! There are many steps to both! You have to create the pattern, type it up, get it tech edited and/or tested, photograph it, and advertise! Sometimes it can take up to a month for me to publish a design! If you’re looking for something that is quick, this may not be for you!
7.It’s not just sitting and creating all day.
Some days, I just sit and crochet all day. But those days are few and far between. Most days are spent typing, posting on social media, emailing my list, listing patterns on Ravelry or Etsy, or adding content to my website. There’s just so much more to running an independent pattern designing business than just the creating part.
8.It is a constant learning process.
I am always learning new things. Things about crochet, photography, running my business, marketing, and more! Every day there’s a new marketing technique, or an easier way to explain a stitch, or a new app everyone is loving! It is a never-ending learning process!
9.It can get lonely.
I work from home all day, every day. I’m a home body so it’s not terrible most of the time. But every once in a while it does get lonely. Some days I never leave the house. Sometimes weeks go by before I hang out with friends or have a date with my husband. It takes some serious self-care and discipline to not only work when you need to work (which means sometimes you can’t go to lunch with the girlfriends), but also to stop working when it’s time to stop, and go spend some time with the people you love.
10.It’s hard to explain to people who aren’t in your craft community.
If I tell a crocheter that I’m a crochet pattern designer, he/she will know what I do. But if I tell someone who doesn’t crochet at all, they probably won’t have any idea exactly what I do. Many times, I’ve told friends or acquaintances what I do, and they think it means I sell finished crochet items. It sometimes takes a bit to help them understand the designing and pattern publishing part.
Here’s the actual video of the live segment from Wednesday, February 13th! If you have any questions, leave them below in the comments!
This post- Camel Stitch Hat Free crochet pattern- may contain affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support!
The Camel Stitch Hat is such a great design, not only because of the awesome stitch, but also because it comes with 3 brim options! You can make this hat with a ribbed brim, as shown above, a front post brim, or a bonnet style brim with tassels! The camel stitch is also a really fun, textured stitch to use that works up fairly quick! I have a tutorial on how to do the camel stitch HERE.
The sample pictured above usesLion Brand Yarn Vanna’s Choice yarn. This is a yarn that I haven’t used much in the past but I really love the tweed yarn options that they have so when I want a good tweed, it is my go-to. This colorway that I used in the photos is called Grey Marble!
You can purchase the ad-free, printable pdf version of this pattern on Ravelry and Etsy!
Materials
175-300 yards worsted weight yarn in 1-2 colors.
H/8 5.0mm crochet hook
Scissors
Measuring tape
Tapestry needle
Pom pom maker (optional)
Difficulty
Easy
Gauge
16 hdc + 13 rows = 4”
Sizing
Toddler (18-20”) head circumference
Child (20-21”)
Adult (21-22”)
Pattern
Notes
Starting chain does not count as first stitch.
Hat is made from the bottom up with Brim added at the end.
Pattern is written in Toddler size with additional sizes in
parentheses as follows: Toddler (Child, Adult)
Join each round in both loops of the 1st st.
To avoid a seam, use a stitch marker and work continuously in the round without joining.
Stitches
Needed & Abbreviations
ch- chain(s)
st-stitch(es)
sc- single
crochet
hdc- half
double crochet
hdc 3rd
loop – half double crochet into the 3rd loop
hdc2tog-
half double crochet 2 together
dc- double
crochet
FPdc- front
post double crochet
BPdc- back
post double crochet
sl st- slipst
blo- back loop only
**- repeat what is insidethese symbols
Ribbed Brim (If doing this option start with your brim first- if doing another brim option start with Body of Hat.)
Ch 9
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch
from hook and across. (8)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in blo of
each st across. (8)
Rows 3-76 (80, 84): Repeat row 2.
(8)
Sew both ends of the brim togetherby slip stitching through both stitches across. Turn brim to the other side and continue to Body of Hat.
(For this brim option ch 1 and work sc around the side of the brim instead of chaining.)
Body of Hat
Ch 76 (80, 84), join to 1st
ch.
Round 1: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each ch
around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Round 2: Ch 1, 1 hdc 3rd
loop in each st around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Rounds 3- 18(20, 22): repeat round
2. Hat should be about 5.5” (6”, 7”) long at this point. Add more rounds if
needed.
Round 19 (21, 23): Ch 1, hdc 3rd
loop in 1st 2 st, hdc2tog 3rd loop, *1 hdc 3rd
loop in next 2 st, hdc2tog 3rd loop*, repeat around, join to 1st
st. (57, 60, 63)
Round 20 (22, 24): Ch 1, 1 hdc 3rd
loop in 1st st, hdc2tog 3rd loop, *1 hdc 3rd
loop in next, hdc2tog 3rd loop*, repeat around, join to 1st
st. (38, 40, 42)
Round 21 (23, 25): Ch 1, *hdc2tog
3rd loop*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (19, 20, 21)
Round 22 (24, 26): Ch 1, 1 hdc 3rd
loop in each st around, join to 1st st. (19, 20, 21)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to
close. Weave tail in and out of top stitches and pull tight to close. Fasten
off. Weave in ends.
Brim #2 (Bonnet Style with Tassels)
Join yarn with same color or a contrasting
color to the seam of your work at the bottom of the hat.
Working in both loops now:
Round 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st
around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in 1st
19 (20, 21) st, 1 dc in next 38 (40, 42) st, 1 sc in last 19 (20, 21) st, join
to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in 1st
19 (20, 21) st, *1 FPdc in next 2, 1 BPdc in next 2* for 38 (40, 42) st, 1 sc
in last 19 (20,21) st, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Rounds 4-5: Repeat round 3.
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in 1st
20 (21, 22) st, ch 40, sl st in each ch across, sc in next 36 (38, 40), ch 40,
sl st in each ch across, sc in last 20 (21, 22) st, join to 1st st.
(76, 80, 84- not counting sl st)
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Attach
a larger pom pom to the top of the hat and one smaller pom pom to each end of
the tassels.
Brim #3 (No Tassels)
Join yarn with same color or a
contrasting color to the seam of your work at the bottom of the hat.
Working in both loops now:
Round 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st
around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Round 2: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st
around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Round 3: Ch 2, 1 FPdc in 1st
st, 1 dc in next st, * 1 FPdc in next st, 1 dc in next st*, repeat around, join
to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)
Rounds 4-5: Repeat round 3.
Fasten off. Weave in ends. Attacha larger pom pom to top of hat if desired.
The Crossroads Headband crochet pattern uses simple cable stitching to create a super cute headband! You can use any worsted weight yarn for this headband. I used Red Heart Soft yarn for the sample pictured above. It’s a true worsted weight with a slight shine to it that I really like.
The Crossroads Headband crochet pattern comes with instructions for just one size, but in the notes section it gives you instructions on how to adjust the length to fit anyone! Enjoy!
*I’ve just added a quick (on my phone quick) video tutorial! Go HERE to watch it!*
You can purchase the ad-free, printable PDF pattern on Ravelry or Etsy!
Materials
75-95 yards worsted weight yarn
I (5.5mm) crochet hook
Scissors
Measuring tape
Tapestry needle
One 1” button
Difficulty
Intermediate
Gauge
16 sts x 10 rows= 4” (Alternating sc and dc
rows.)
Sizing
20.5” x 3.75”
Pattern Notes
Starting chain does not count as first stitch unless stated
otherwise within the pattern.
You can adjust the length of the headband by either adding or
subtracting repeats of rows 13-24. You can also just add a few more sc rows of
12 sts before increasing and decreasing on each side, if you only need to add
or take away a little bit of length.
Work your Front Post stitches around the post or stitch 2 rounds below.
Stitches
Needed & Abbreviations
ch(s)- chain(s)
st(s)- stitch(es)
sc- single crochet
dc- double crochet
FPdc- front post double crochet
FPtc- front post triple crochet
sc2tog- single crochet 2 together
lch- long chain (pull up loop the length of a dc, ch 1)
Headband
Ch 2
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch
from hook. (1 sc)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next
st. (2 sc)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next
and across. (4 sc)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in
next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st. (6 sc)
Row 5: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in 1st
st, 1 sc in next st and each st across to last st, 2 sc in last. (8 sc)
Rows 6-7: Repeat row 5. (12 sc)
Row 8: lch, 1 dc in each st
across. (12 dc)
Row 9: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 4
sts, 1 FPdc around next 4 sts, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)
Row 10: repeat row 8. (
Row 11: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first
4 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around 2 skipped
stitches, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)
Row 12: repeat row 8.
Row 13: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first
4 sts, 1 FPtc around next 4 sts, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)
Row 14: repeat row 8.
Row 15: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first
3 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts,
1 sc in last 3 sts. (12)
Row 16: repeat row 8.
Row 17: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 2 sts, 1 FPtc around
next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts.
(12)
Row 18: repeat row 8.
Row 19: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first
3 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts,
1 sc in last 3 sts. (12)
Row 20: repeat row 8.
Row 21: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 4 sts, 1 FPtc around
next 4 sts, 1 sc in next 4 sts. (12)
Row 22: repeat row 8.
Row 23: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first
4 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around 2 sts skipped,
1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)
Row 24: repeat row 8.
Repeat rows 13-24 two more times.
Row 25: ch 1, turn, 1 in first 4
sts, 1 FPdc around next 4 sts, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)
Row 26: Repeat row 8.
Row 27: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, 1 sc
in next 8 sts, sc2tog. (10)
Row 28: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, 1 sc
in next 6 sts, sc2tog. (8)
Row 29: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, 1 sc
in next 4 sts, sc2tog. (6)
Row 30: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, 1 sc
in next 2 sts, sc2tog. (4)
Row 31: Ch 1 turn, sc in 1st
st, ch 2, skip 2, sc in last st. (2)
Finishing
Ch 1, turn, sc evenly around
entire headband (including the ch 2 from row 31), join to 1st st.
Fasten off. Attach button to beginning end with yarn and tapestry needle. Weave in all ends.
I love the camel stitch! It is such a fun stitch to create! It creates great texture, which I love, and it almost has a knitted look to it! Best of all, it’s super easy! If you know the basic stitches of crochet, you will be able to figure this one out too!
This video tutorial is made by me, so it’s a left-handed tutorial, but the workup is the exact same thing for a right-handed crocheter. You’ll just be going in the opposite direction as I am in the video.
If you want to see more tutorial videos, let me know what you would like to see below in the comments! Be sure to give my video a thumbs up and subscribe to my channel as well!
It’s time for one last warm weather wearable crochet pattern! This one was originally going to be a fall design but I ended up liking it as a short sleeved top so I decided to leave it that way! The Chevy Tee is simple but fun, with a gorgeous v-neck and a beautiful chevron stitch combo! This crochet pattern comes in both Children’s sizes 2-10 AND Adult sizes XS-3X! So you can make yourself one and your daughter or a friend one too! A mommy and me set would be absolutely adorable!
The Chevy Tee can be made using any DK weight (#3) yarn! It’s a pretty quick work up and only requires a small amount of sewing.
You can purchase this crochet pattern on Ravelry and Etsy!
Today I want to share with your my review of KT and the Squid’s hand dyed yarn AND a new free pattern I created with it, the Nova Shrug!
Hand dyed yarn is my new obsession! I have never actually dyed yarn myself but I am so in awe of those who do it! To create different colorways and styles is just so amazing to me!
I recently purchased some hand dyed yarn from KT and the Squid. Katy is a fellow crochet and knit pattern designer and blogger who also hand dyes yarn! She has some of the most beautiful crochet designs I have ever seen! Her hand dyed yarn is just as beautiful!
Katy has a variety of yarns to choose from. You can choose from fingering weight to worsted weight yarn. All of her yarn bases are sourced from farms that are cruelty free and she hand dyes each and every skein herself!
I purchased 2 skeins of the colorway Pajama Pants because I instantly fell in love with the rich tones of blue, gray, and dark pink right away! I knew I wanted to design something with it as soon as I received it in the mail!
This yarn is amazing! I wasn’t sure if it would be scratchy or feel heavy from the dye, but I can honestly say it is very soft, very smooth, and not heavy at all. It’s easy to work with, and crochets up like a dream. I think it’s also worth saying, because I change my mind so often, it frogs (rip it, rip it) really well too. I started the design one way, got about halfway through it, and then changed my mind and pulled it all apart. It was still so smooth and came apart very easily. There’s nothing more frustrating than a pilling yarn that won’t come undone without getting tangled or stuck together. I can gladly say this is not the case with KT and the Squid yarn.
I’m excited to be able to offer you a discount code for Katy’s beautiful hand dyed yarns! If you use coupon code NOVA at checkout you’ll receive 10% off of your yarn purchase! The yarns HERE will be perfect for the Nova Shrug!
Now to the pattern! I knew right away I wanted to make a little shrug with this yarn! It would make the perfect accent accessory for many of my favorite outfits! The Nova Shrug is super easy to make and assemble and can easily be adjusted to fit any size. Enjoy!
You can purchase the ad-free, printable pdf version of the pattern on Ravelry or Etsy!
Materials
325-430 yards DK (#3) weight yarn
H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Scissors
Measuring Tape
Yarn needle
Difficulty
Easy
Sizing
S 32-34″ bust, 325 yards
M 36-38″ bust, 347 yards
L 40-42” bust, 430 yards
Pattern Notes
Starting chain does not count as first stitch unless stated otherwise within the pattern.
To make larger or smaller, use multiples of 12 + 3 for you starting chain. Height of rectangle should be 2” taller than width.
Pattern is written in size Small with additional sizes in parentheses. Stitch count for all sizes in parentheses at the end of each row.
Stitches Needed & Abbreviations
ch(s)- chain(s)
st(s)- stitch(es)
sc- single crochet
dc- double crochet
RS- right side
**- repeat from
Gauge
Ch 27
Row 1 (RS): 2dc in 3rd ch from hook, * skip 2 chs, 1 sc in next ch, ch 5, skip 5 chs, 1 sc in next, skip 2, 5 dc in next ch*, repeat from * across to end, 3 dc in last, turn. (1 shell, 2 half shells)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 spaces, ch 5, 1 sc in 3rd dc of shell, repeat from * to end, 1 sc in top of starting ch, turn. (4 ch-5 spaces)
Row 3: *Ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-5 space, 5 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next ch-5 space*, repeat from * to last ch-5 space, ch 2, dc in last, turn. (2 shells)
Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in 1st dc, * ch 5, 1 sc in 3rd dc of shell, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-5 space*, repeat across, turn. (4 ch-5 spaces)
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 2 dc in 1st st, *1 sc in next ch-5 space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-5 space, 5 dc in next sc*, repeat to end, work 3 dc in last sc. (1 shell, 2 half shells)
Swatch should measure 5” x 2.5”.
Rectangle
Ch 99 (111, 123)
Row 1 (RS): 2dc in 3rd ch from hook, * skip 2 chs, 1 sc in next ch, ch 5, skip 5 chs, 1 sc in next, skip 2, 5 dc in next ch*, repeat from * across to end, 3 dc in last, turn. (7, 8, 9 full shells)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 space, ch 5, 1 sc in 3rd dc of shell, repeat from * to end, 1 sc in top of starting ch, turn. (16, 18, 20 ch-5 spaces)
Row 3: *Ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-5 space, 5 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next ch-5 space*, repeat from * to last ch-5 space, ch 2, dc in last, turn. (8, 9, 10 shells)
Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in 1st dc, * ch 5, 1 sc in 3rd dc of shell, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-5 space*, repeat across, turn. (16, 18, 20 ch-5 spaces)
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 2 dc in 1st st, *1 sc in next ch-5 space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-5 space, 5 dc in next sc*, repeat to end, work 3 dc in last sc, turn. (7, 8, 9 full shells)
Repeat rows 2-5 until rectangle is approximately 21 (22, 24”) long.
Trim
Round 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around working one sc in each stitch, and 3 sc in each ch space, join to 1st st.
Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, join to 1st st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
If you need to block, do so at this point.
Assembling the Shrug
Lay your rectangle down vertically, with the wrong side facing you. Fold the top over the bottom. Using a long piece of yarn and your tapestry needle, sew each side together 12-15 stitches, from the bottom up. Do the same on the other side. This creates your armholes. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Pattern is a copyright of Two Brothers Blankets. Please do not share, sell, or alter in any way.
The Catherine Cowl combines some of my favorite stitches to create this warm and cozy cowl! There are 3 different length options for you to choose from! The Catherine Cowl makes a wonderful gift for anyone who loves scarves!
You can purchase the ad-free, printable pdf version of the pattern on Ravelry or Etsy!
Materials Needed
#4 Worsted weight yarn
Size K (6.5mm) hook or hook to obtain gauge
Measuring tape
Darning needle for weaving in ends
Gauge
7fhdc=3
Pattern Notes
If your gauge is a little off, that’s ok. You mostly want your starting chainless hdc foundation to be the correct length before you join to the first stitch.
Pattern is worked in the round, joining at the end of each round. You will have a seam
but you can place the seam at the back of the neck and it will never be seen. Approximate length:
Cowl 28”
Short Infinity 47”
Long Infinity 60”
Stitches Needed and Abbreviations
fhdc- chainless foundation hdc
sc- single crochet
hdc- half double crochet
dc- double crochet
fptc- front post triple crochet
blo- back loop only
3rd loop hdc- work your hdc into the 3rd loop of the previous round of hdc.
rs- right side
**- repeat from
To Start: work 92 fhdc for cowl, 140 fhdc for short infinity, and 180 fhdc for long
infinity. Join to first st. (you will stitch the ends together at the end) Round 1: (rs facing you) Ch 1, working into the 3rd loop of the fhdc, hdc in same stitch as
your ch 1 and in each stitch around, join. Round 2: Ch1, 3rd loop hdc into the same stitch and in each stitch around, join. Round 3: Repeat round 2. Round 4: Ch 3, *skip 2 stitches, fptc in next 2 stitches. Working over the 2 stitches you
just made fptc in the 2 skipped stitches.* Repeat around, join. Round 5: Ch 1, sc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join. Round 6: Ch 2, blo dc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join. Round 7: Ch 1, blo hdc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join. Round 8: repeat Round 6. Round 9: repeat Round 7.
Repeat rounds 1-9 one more time.
Repeat rounds 1-3 one more time.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
The Sarasota Kimono crochet pattern is a perfect accessory for any outfit! Wear it over a tank top, swimsuit, or even a long sleeve shirt! Add fringe for some flair if you desire!
I used Baby Bee Sweet Delight yarn for my sample design. This yarn is a DK (#3) weight yarn that is made of 60% acrylic and 40% polyamide. It is very soft! I have used it for a number of designs, including the Derby Duster Vest and Springtime Sweater. This yarn has a lovely drape and stitch definition and is a favorite DK weight yarn of mine!
This crochet pattern comes with instructions for women’s sizes XS to 4X. It is a side by side workup with the back sewn together to create the kimono. The pattern is rated intermediate in difficulty. You will need to know the basic stitches plus the dc3tog stitch for this project. Check out this quick video on How to Add Fringe to your crochet project!
You can purchase the Sarasota Kimono crochet pattern on Ravelry and Etsy!
If you’re looking for more super cute accessories check out the Summer Stroll Vest crochet pattern!
Need a quick and easy hat pattern? I’ve got you covered! The Easy Peasy Chunky Slouch Hat uses #5 bulky weight yarn and is SO easy to make! This pattern comes in toddler, child, and adult size but be sure to check gauge because this hat will also have a ton of stretch to it!
You can purchase the ad-free, printable pdf version on Ravelry and Etsy!
Materials
50-100 yards bulky (#5) weight yarn
N/10 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Measuring tape
Tapestry needle
Difficulty
Beginner
Gauge
4 dc x 2 rows = 2”
Sizing
Toddler (18-20”)
Child (20-21”)
Adult (21-22”)
Pattern Notes
Starting chain does not count as first stitch.
To add more slouch, add more rows to the body of hat before moving on to the trim.
Stitches Needed & Abbreviations
MC- magic circle
sc- single crochet
dc- double crochet
st- stitch
**- repeat
Toddler (18-20”)
Create a MC, chain 2.
Round 1: Work 10 dc in MC, join to 1st st. Pull tight to close. (10)
Round 2: Chain 2, 2 dc in same stich as ch 2 and in each st around, join to 1st st. (20)
Round 3: Chain 2, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 2, 1 dc in next, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next*, repeat from * until last stitch in the round, join to 1st st. (30)
Round 4-8: Chain 2, 1 dc in same stitch and each st around, join to 1st st. (30)
Round 9-11: (Trim) Ch 1, sc in same stitch and each st around, join to 1st st. (30)
Finish off and weave in ends.
Child (20-21”)
Create a MC, ch 2.
Row 1: Work 10 dc in MC, join to 1st st. Pull tight to close. (10)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 2 and in each st around, join to 1st st. (20)
Row 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 2, 1 dc in next stitch, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next*. Repeat from * around, join to 1st st. (30)
Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 9 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 9 st, repeat from ** around, join to 1st st. (33)
Row 5-10: Ch 2, dc in same stitch as ch 2 and in each stitch around, join to 1st st. (33)
Row 11-13: (Trim) Ch 1, sc in same stitch as ch 1 and in each stitch around, join to 1st st. (33)
Finish off and weave in ends.
Teen/Adult (21-22”)
Create a MC, ch 2.
Row 1: Work 10 dc in MC, join to 1st st. Pull tight to close. (10)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 2, 2 dc in each stitch around, join to 1st st. (20)
Row 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 2, 1 dc in next st, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next*. Repeat from * around, join to 1st st. (30)
Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 2, 1 dc in next 4 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 st.* Repeat from * around, join to 1st st. (36)
Row 5-10: Ch 2, dc in same st as ch 2 and in each st around, join to 1st st. (36)
Row 11-13: (Trim) Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1 and in each st around, join to 1st st. (36) Finish off and weave in ends.
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