Camel Stitch Hat Crochet Pattern

This post- Camel Stitch Hat crochet pattern-  may contain affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! 

The Camel Stitch Hat is such a great design, not only because of the awesome stitch, but also because it comes with 3 brim options! You can make this hat with a ribbed brim, as shown above, a front post brim, or a bonnet style brim with tassels! The camel stitch is also a really fun, textured stitch to use that works up fairly quick! I have a tutorial on how to do the camel stitch HERE

The sample pictured above uses Lion Brand Yarn Vanna’s Choice yarn. This is a yarn that I haven’t used much in the past but I really love the tweed yarn options that they have so when I want a good tweed, it is my go-to. This colorway that I used in the photos is called Grey Marble! 

You can purchase an ad-free printable pdf version of the pattern HERE.

Materials

  • 175-300 yards worsted weight yarn in 1-2 colors.
  • H/8 5.0mm crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Tapestry needle
  • Pom pom maker (optional)

Difficulty

  • Easy

Gauge

  • 16 hdc + 13 rows = 4”

Sizing

  • Toddler (18-20”) head circumference
  • Child (20-21”)
  • Adult (21-22”)

Pattern Notes

Starting chain does not count as first stitch.

Hat is made from the bottom up with Brim added at the end.

Pattern is written in Toddler size with additional sizes in parentheses as follows: Toddler (Child, Adult)

Join each round in both loops of the 1st st.

To avoid a seam, use a stitch marker and work continuously in the round without joining.

Stitches Needed & Abbreviations

ch- chain(s)                   

st-stitch(es)                 

sc- single crochet

hdc- half double crochet

hdc 3rd loop – half double crochet into the 3rd loop

hdc2tog- half double crochet 2 together

dc- double crochet

FPdc- front post double crochet

BPdc- back post double crochet

sl st- slipst

  blo- back loop only

 **- repeat what is insidethese symbols

Ribbed Brim (If doing this option start with your brim first- if doing another brim option start with Body of Hat.)

Ch 9

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (8)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in blo of each st across. (8)

Rows 3-76 (80, 84): Repeat row 2. (8)

Sew both ends of the brim togetherby slip stitching through both stitches across. Turn brim to the other side and continue to Body of Hat.

(For this brim option ch 1 and work sc around the side of the brim instead of chaining.)

Body of Hat

Ch 76 (80, 84), join to 1st ch.

Round 1: Ch 1, 1 hdc in each ch around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)

Round 2: Ch 1, 1 hdc 3rd loop in each st around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)

Rounds 3- 18(20, 22): repeat round 2. Hat should be about 5.5” (6”, 7”) long at this point. Add more rounds if needed.

Round 19 (21, 23): Ch 1, hdc 3rd loop in 1st 2 st, hdc2tog 3rd loop, *1 hdc 3rd loop in next 2 st, hdc2tog 3rd loop*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (57, 60, 63)

Round 20 (22, 24): Ch 1, 1 hdc 3rd loop in 1st st, hdc2tog 3rd loop, *1 hdc 3rd loop in next, hdc2tog 3rd loop*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (38, 40, 42)

Round 21 (23, 25): Ch 1, *hdc2tog 3rd loop*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (19, 20, 21)

Round 22 (24, 26): Ch 1, 1 hdc 3rd loop in each st around, join to 1st st. (19, 20, 21)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to close. Weave tail in and out of top stitches and pull tight to close. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Brim #2 (Bonnet Style with Tassels)

Join yarn with same color or a contrasting color to the seam of your work at the bottom of the hat.

Working in both loops now:

Round 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)

Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in 1st 19 (20, 21) st, 1 dc in next 38 (40, 42) st, 1 sc in last 19 (20, 21) st, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in 1st 19 (20, 21) st, *1 FPdc in next 2, 1 BPdc in next 2* for 38 (40, 42) st, 1 sc in last 19 (20,21) st, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)

Rounds 4-5: Repeat round 3.

Round 6: Ch 1, sc in 1st 20 (21, 22) st, ch 40, sl st in each ch across, sc in next 36 (38, 40), ch 40, sl st in each ch across, sc in last 20 (21, 22) st, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84- not counting sl st)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Attach a larger pom pom to the top of the hat and one smaller pom pom to each end of the tassels.

Brim #3 (No Tassels)

Join yarn with same color or a contrasting color to the seam of your work at the bottom of the hat.

Working in both loops now:

Round 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)

Round 2: Ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)

Round 3: Ch 2, 1 FPdc in 1st st, 1 dc in next st, * 1 FPdc in next st, 1 dc in next st*, repeat around, join to 1st st. (76, 80, 84)

Rounds 4-5: Repeat round 3.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Attacha larger pom pom to top of hat if desired. 

Crossroads Headband Free Crochet Pattern

This post- Crossroads Headband Free Crochet Pattern-  may contain affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase from the links below, I will get a small percentage of the sales at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your continued support! 

The Crossroads Headband crochet pattern uses simple cable stitching to create a super cute headband! You can use any worsted weight yarn for this headband. I used Red Heart Soft yarn for the sample pictured above. It’s a true worsted weight with a slight shine to it that I really like. 

The Crossroads Headband crochet pattern comes with instructions for just one size, but in the notes section it gives you instructions on how to adjust the length to fit anyone! Enjoy!

*I’ve just added a quick (on my phone quick) video tutorial! Go HERE to watch it!* 

You can purchase the ad-free, printable pdf pattern HERE.

Materials

  • 75-95 yards worsted weight yarn
  • I (5.5mm) crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Tapestry needle
  • One 1” button

Difficulty

  • Intermediate

Gauge

  • 16 sts x 10 rows= 4” (Alternating sc and dc rows.)

Sizing

  • 20.5” x 3.75”

Pattern Notes

Starting chain does not count as first stitch unless stated otherwise within the pattern.

You can adjust the length of the headband by either adding or subtracting repeats of rows 13-24. You can also just add a few more sc rows of 12 sts before increasing and decreasing on each side, if you only need to add or take away a little bit of length.

Work your Front Post stitches around the post or stitch 2 rounds below.

Stitches Needed & Abbreviations

ch(s)- chain(s)

st(s)- stitch(es)

sc- single crochet

dc- double crochet

FPdc- front post double crochet

FPtc- front post triple crochet

sc2tog- single crochet 2 together

lch- long chain (pull up loop the length of a dc, ch 1)

Headband

Ch 2

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook. (1 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next st. (2 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next and across. (4 sc)

Row 4:  ch 1, turn, 2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st. (6 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next st and each st across to last st, 2 sc in last. (8 sc)

Rows 6-7: Repeat row 5. (12 sc)

Row 8: lch, 1 dc in each st across. (12 dc)

Row 9: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 4 sts, 1 FPdc around next 4 sts, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)

Row 10: repeat row 8. (

Row 11: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 4 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around 2 skipped stitches, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)

Row 12: repeat row 8.

Row 13: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 4 sts, 1 FPtc around next 4 sts, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)

Row 14: repeat row 8.

Row 15: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 3 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 3 sts. (12)

Row 16: repeat row 8.

Row 17:  ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts. (12)

Row 18: repeat row 8.

Row 19: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 3 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 sc in last 3 sts. (12)

Row 20: repeat row 8.

Row 21:  ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 4 sts, 1 FPtc around next 4 sts, 1 sc in next 4 sts. (12)

Row 22: repeat row 8.

Row 23: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in first 4 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around next 2 sts, 1 FPtc around 2 sts skipped, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)

Row 24: repeat row 8.

Repeat rows 13-24 two more times.

Row 25: ch 1, turn, 1 in first 4 sts, 1 FPdc around next 4 sts, 1 sc in last 4 sts. (12)

Row 26: Repeat row 8.

Row 27: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog. (10)

Row 28: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog. (8)

Row 29: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog. (6)

Row 30: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog. (4)

Row 31: Ch 1 turn, sc in 1st st, ch 2, skip 2, sc in last st. (2)

Finishing

Ch 1, turn, sc evenly around entire headband (including the ch 2 from row 31), join to 1st st.

Fasten off. Attach button to beginning end with yarn and tapestry needle. Weave in all ends.

 Rows 9-23 pictured above. 


Camel Stitch Crochet Left-Handed Video Tutorial

Camel Stitch

I love the camel stitch! It is such a fun stitch to create! It creates great texture, which I love, and it almost has a knitted look to it! Best of all, it’s super easy! If you know the basic stitches of crochet, you will be able to figure this one out too! 

This video tutorial is made by me, so it’s a left-handed tutorial, but the workup is the exact same thing for a right-handed crocheter. You’ll just be going in the opposite direction as I am in the video. 

If you want to see more tutorial videos, let me know what you would like to see below in the comments! Be sure to give my video a thumbs up and subscribe to my channel as well!

Go HERE to watch the video tutorial! 

Chevy Tee Crochet Pattern Release

It’s time for one last warm weather wearable crochet pattern! This one was originally going to be a fall design but I ended up liking it as a short sleeved top so I decided to leave it that way! The Chevy Tee is simple but fun, with a gorgeous v-neck  and a beautiful chevron stitch combo!  This crochet pattern comes in both Children’s sizes 2-10 AND Adult sizes XS-3X! So you can make yourself one and your daughter or a friend one too! A mommy and me set would be absolutely adorable!

The Chevy Tee can be made using any DK weight yarn! It’s a pretty quick work up and only requires a small amount of sewing.

The Chevy Tee crochet pattern is 50% off through Sunday, August 12, 2018! No code is needed. The discount has already been applied! Grab the pattern HERE!

The Nova Shrug- Free Crochet Pattern + Yarn Review

Today I want to share with your my review of KT and the Squid’s hand dyed yarn AND a new free pattern I created with it, the Nova Shrug!

Nova Shrug

Hand dyed yarn is my new obsession! I have never actually dyed yarn myself but I am so in awe of those who do it! To create different colorways and styles is just so amazing to me!

I recently purchased some hand dyed yarn from KT and the Squid. Katy is a fellow crochet and knit pattern designer and blogger who also hand dyes yarn! She has some of the most beautiful crochet designs I have ever seen! Her hand dyed yarn is just as beautiful!

Katy has a variety of yarns to choose from. You can choose from fingering weight to worsted weight yarn. All of her yarn bases are sourced from farms that are cruelty free and she hand dyes each and every skein herself!

I purchased 2 skeins of the colorway Pajama Pants because I instantly fell in love with the rich tones of blue, gray, and dark pink right away! I knew I wanted to design something with it as soon as I received it in the mail!

Nova Shrug

This yarn is amazing! I wasn’t sure if it would be scratchy or feel heavy from the dye, but I can honestly say it is very soft, very smooth, and not heavy at all. It’s easy to work with, and crochets up like a dream.  I think it’s also worth saying, because I change my mind so often, it frogs (rip it, rip it) really well too. I started the design one way, got about halfway through it, and then changed my mind and pulled it all apart. It was still so smooth and came apart very easily. There’s nothing more frustrating than a pilling yarn that won’t come undone without getting tangled or stuck together. I can gladly say this is not the case with KT and the Squid yarn.

I’m excited to be able to offer you a discount code for Katy’s beautiful hand dyed yarns! If you use coupon code NOVA at checkout you’ll receive 10% off of your yarn purchase! The yarns HERE will be perfect for the Nova Shrug!

Now to the pattern! I knew right away I wanted to make a little shrug with this yarn! It would make the perfect accent accessory for many of my favorite outfits! The Nova Shrug is super easy to make and assemble and can easily be adjusted to fit any size. Enjoy!

You will find  the ad free PDF crochet pattern available for purchase HERE.

Nova Shrug

Materials

  • 325-430 yards DK (#3) weight yarn
  • H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Measuring Tape
  • Yarn needle

Difficulty

  • Easy

Sizing

  • S 32-34″ bust, 325 yards
  • M 36-38″ bust, 347 yards
  • L 40-42” bust, 430 yards

Pattern Notes

Starting chain does not count as first stitch unless stated otherwise within the pattern.

To make larger or smaller, use multiples of 12 + 3 for you starting chain. Height of rectangle should be 2” taller than width.

Pattern is written in size Small with additional sizes in parentheses. Stitch count for all sizes in parentheses at the end of each row.

Stitches Needed & Abbreviations

ch(s)- chain(s)

st(s)- stitch(es)

sc- single crochet

dc- double crochet

RS- right side

**- repeat from

Gauge

Ch 27

Row 1 (RS): 2dc in 3rd ch from hook, * skip 2 chs, 1 sc in next ch, ch 5, skip 5 chs, 1 sc in next, skip 2, 5 dc in next ch*, repeat from * across to end, 3 dc in last, turn. (1 shell, 2 half shells)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 spaces, ch 5, 1 sc in 3rd dc of shell, repeat from * to end, 1 sc in top of starting ch, turn. (4 ch-5 spaces)

Row 3: *Ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-5 space, 5 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next ch-5 space*, repeat from * to last ch-5 space, ch 2, dc in last, turn. (2 shells)

Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in 1st dc, * ch 5, 1 sc in 3rd dc of shell, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-5 space*, repeat across, turn. (4 ch-5 spaces)

Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 2 dc in 1st st, *1 sc in next ch-5 space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-5 space, 5 dc in next sc*, repeat to end, work 3 dc in last sc. (1 shell, 2 half shells)

Swatch should measure 5” x 2.5”.

Rectangle

Ch 99 (111, 123)

Row 1 (RS): 2dc in 3rd ch from hook, * skip 2 chs, 1 sc in next ch, ch 5, skip 5 chs, 1 sc in next, skip 2, 5 dc in next ch*, repeat from * across to end, 3 dc in last, turn. (7, 8, 9 full shells)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, *ch 5, sc in next ch-5 space, ch 5, 1 sc in 3rd dc of shell, repeat from * to end, 1 sc in top of starting ch, turn. (16, 18, 20 ch-5 spaces)

Row 3: *Ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-5 space, 5 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next ch-5 space*, repeat from * to last ch-5 space, ch 2, dc in last, turn. (8, 9, 10 shells)

Row 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in 1st dc, * ch 5, 1 sc in 3rd dc of shell, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-5 space*, repeat across, turn. (16, 18, 20 ch-5 spaces)

Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 2 dc in 1st st, *1 sc in next ch-5 space, ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-5 space, 5 dc in next sc*, repeat to end, work 3 dc in last sc, turn. (7, 8, 9 full shells)

Repeat rows 2-5 until rectangle is approximately 21 (22, 24”) long.

Trim

Round 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around working one sc in each stitch, and 3 sc in each ch space, join to 1st st.

Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, join to 1st st. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

If you need to block, do so at this point.

Assembling the Shrug

Lay your rectangle down vertically, with the wrong side facing you. Fold the top over the bottom.  Using a long piece of yarn and your tapestry needle, sew each side together 12-15 stitches, from the bottom up. Do the same on the other side. This creates your armholes. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Nova Shrug

Pattern is a copyright of Two Brothers Blankets. Please do not share, sell, or alter in any way. 

*This post may contain affiliate links.

Catherine Cowl- Free Crochet Pattern

The Catherine Cowl combines some of my favorite stitches to create this warm and cozy cowl! There are 3 different length options for you to choose from! The Catherine Cowl makes a wonderful gift for anyone who loves scarves!

Catherine Cowl

Materials Needed
#4 Worsted weight yarn
Size K (6.5mm) hook or hook to obtain gauge
Measuring tape
Darning needle for weaving in ends

Gauge
7fhdc=3

Pattern Notes
If your gauge is a little off, that’s ok. You mostly want your starting chainless hdc foundation to be the correct length before you join to the first stitch.
Pattern is worked in the round, joining at the end of each round. You will have a seam
but you can place the seam at the back of the neck and it will never be seen.
Approximate length:
Cowl 28”
Short Infinity 47”
Long Infinity 60”

Stitches Needed and Abbreviations
fhdc- chainless foundation hdc
sc- single crochet
hdc- half double crochet
dc- double crochet
fptc- front post triple crochet
blo- back loop only
3rd loop hdc- work your hdc into the 3rd loop of the previous round of hdc.
rs- right side
**- repeat from

To Start: work 92 fhdc for cowl, 140 fhdc for short infinity, and 180 fhdc for long
infinity. Join to first st. (you will stitch the ends together at the end)
Round 1: (rs facing you) Ch 1, working into the 3rd loop of the fhdc, hdc in same stitch as
your ch 1 and in each stitch around, join.
Round 2: Ch1, 3rd loop hdc into the same stitch and in each stitch around, join.
Round 3: Repeat round 2.
Round 4: Ch 3, *skip 2 stitches, fptc in next 2 stitches. Working over the 2 stitches you
just made fptc in the 2 skipped stitches.* Repeat around, join.
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join.
Round 6: Ch 2, blo dc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join.
Round 7: Ch 1, blo hdc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join.
Round 8: repeat Round 6.
Round 9: repeat Round 7.
Repeat rounds 1-9 one more time.
Repeat rounds 1-3 one more time.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Catherine Cowl

Sarasota Kimono Crochet Pattern Release

It’s a new release day and I’m so excited about this one! It’s been ready for almost a month now and I’ve been so anxious to show it to you! The Sarasota Kimono uses the same delicate stitch combo as the Sarasota Swimsuit Cover and the Sarasota Tank! It uses a light DK (#3) weight yarn to create a warm and cozy cover-up that will go with nearly any outfit! The Sarasota Kimono is so versatile! You can make it oversized or fitted.  You can make it solid or multi-colored. You could add fringe or leave it without fringe. The possibilities are endless!

Sarasota Kimono

I used Hobby Lobby’s Baby Bee Sweet Delight yarn for my sample, but you could also use Lion Brand Yarn Mandala Yarn or Knit Picks City Tweed to give it your own flare!

Sarasota Kimono

 

sarasota kimono

 

Grab your copy of the pattern HERE!

Be sure to share your projects on social media using #twobrothersblankets! If you never want to miss a sale or new pattern release subscribe to this blog by email!

 

*This post may contain affiliate links.

Easy Peasy Chunky Slouch- Free Crochet Pattern

Need a quick and easy hat pattern? I’ve got you covered! The Easy Peasy Chunky Slouch Hat uses #5 bulky weight yarn and is SO easy to make! This pattern comes in toddler, child, and adult size but be sure to check gauge because this hat will also have a ton of stretch to it!

To purchase the printable PDF version of this pattern go HERE.

Easy Peasy Chunky Slouch

Materials

  • 50-100 yards bulky (#5) weight yarn
  • N/10 mm crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Tapestry needle

Difficulty

  • Beginner

Gauge

  • 4 dc x 2 rows = 2”

Sizing

  • Toddler (18-20”)
  • Child (20-21”)
  • Adult (21-22”)

Pattern Notes

Starting chain does not count as first stitch.

To add more slouch, add more rows to the body of hat before moving on to the trim.

Stitches Needed & Abbreviations

MC- magic circle

sc- single crochet

dc- double crochet

st- stitch

**- repeat

Toddler (18-20”)

Create a MC, chain 2.

Round 1: Work 10 dc in MC, join to 1st st. Pull tight to close.  (10)

Round 2: Chain 2, 2 dc in same stich as ch 2 and in each st around, join to 1st st. (20)

Round 3: Chain 2, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 2, 1 dc in next, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next*, repeat from * until last stitch in the round, join to 1st st. (30)

Round 4-8: Chain 2, 1 dc in same stitch and each st around, join to 1st st.  (30)

Round 9-11: (Trim) Ch 1, sc in same stitch and each st around, join to 1st st. (30)

Finish off and weave in ends.

Child (20-21”)

Create a MC, ch 2.

Row 1: Work 10 dc in MC, join to 1st st. Pull tight to close. (10)

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 2 and in each st around, join to 1st st. (20)

Row 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 2, 1 dc in next stitch, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next*. Repeat from * around, join to 1st st. (30)

Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st as ch 2, 1 dc in next 9 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 9 st, repeat from ** around, join to 1st st. (33)

Row 5-10: Ch 2, dc in same stitch as ch 2 and in each stitch around, join to 1st st. (33)

Row 11-13: (Trim) Ch 1, sc in same stitch as ch 1 and in each stitch around, join to 1st st. (33)

Finish off and weave in ends.

Teen/Adult (21-22”)

Create a MC, ch 2.

Row 1: Work 10 dc in MC, join to 1st st. Pull tight to close. (10)

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 2, 2 dc in each stitch around, join to 1st st. (20)

Row 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 2, 1 dc in next st, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next*. Repeat from * around, join to 1st st. (30)

Row 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 2, 1 dc in next 4 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 st.* Repeat from * around, join to 1st st. (36)

Row 5-10: Ch 2, dc in same st as ch 2 and in each st around, join to 1st st. (36)

Row 11-13: (Trim) Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1 and in each st around, join to 1st st. (36) Finish off and weave in ends.

Easy Peasy Chunky Slouch

Crochet Pattern Designing- My Personal Step by Step Process

I am a crochet pattern designer. I design crocheted garments, accessories, and home decor. One question I get asked all the time is what my crochet pattern designing process looks like, from start to finish. So I’ve decided to share it here. I’m sure many other designers do things very differently, but this is my personal process.

Generally crochet pattern designing can take anywhere from 2 weeks to a month and a half, from idea to publication, to complete. Now that I am a bit more established I try to plan my designs at least a month in advance. But when I was first starting to design, I would just start whenever inspiration hit. So now that you know the general timeline, here’s how it usually happens, step by step.

1. Inspiration

So I have a long list of design ideas in one of my many notebooks. Any time inspiration hits I write it down so that I won’t forget it and will eventually get to design it. This works well since I now plan out my designs a month in advance because I can just look through my list and decided which ones I want to work on next. I get inspiration from everything! When I go shopping I will see styles that I like and sometimes get ideas from them. Sometimes my family will inspire me to try something. Sometimes a crochet stitch or a certain yarn will give me an idea! I literally get inspiration all the time in so many different ways.

2. Creating a Sample

Once I’ve been inspired and decide to start designing something in particular, I will then decide on my yarn, hook size, and stitch. I will then begin creating the sample. I start with a gauge swatch so that I can do the math to make the sample in the correct size. If it is a wearable, I usually make it in my size so that I can wear it myself and try it on as I work. If it is not a wearable I just use my gauge to determine what size I want it to be. I usually only create one sample unless I run into an issue during testing and need to re-work something.  As I’m creating I take notes for each step of the process. Creating a sample usually takes me 1-2 weeks from start to finish.

3. Working out the Math for Additional Sizes.

The gauge swatch is so important because it makes it super easy for me to figure out the number of stitches needed for additional sizes. That will have to be a blog post on it’s own, but I  basically use the number of stitches from my gauge swatch and the measurements I need for a particular size to come up with the number of stitches I need for that size.  Then I’m ready to send it to testers.

4. Typing up the pattern to send to Testers. 

Over the 4 years I’ve been designing I have put together a great group of reliable, easy to work with testers. It has taken me a while, and I’ve been burned a few times in the process, but I finally have an amazing group of exclusive testers. So once my sample is completed I usually snap a photo of it and request testers for it. I then type up the  the pattern and send it to the testers who have volunteered and they work up their own sample of it in the assigned size they’ve been given. They look for typos, and work up errors throughout the pattern. They keep track of how much yarn they use and they take photos of their samples once they are finished.

I think it’s worth noting that I could not do what I do without my testers. I make mistakes in just about every pattern I’ve typed. That could mean careless typos or full on math errors. But my testers catch it almost every time, so that by the time it gets released to the public, it’s error free and easy to follow. A big hats off to my wonderful testers!

5. Tech Editing

The next step is one I don’t always take, but I try to as much as possible. I have hired a tech editor to read through my pattern one last time and check for any errors or mathematical issues. This happens after my testers have returned their feedback and after I have edited the pattern. I’ve paid between $15 and $50 for tech editing services.

6. Photography

This step usually happens sometime during the testing process. Since I create my samples in my size, most of the time, I usually model my own designs. My husband is now my photographer since we’ve moved, and I must say, he does a fabulous job. He tries to take photos from every angle and with me posing differently in each photo so that the customer can get a real feel for how the design will look when they make it themselves. We try to do photos outdoors in natural lighting as often as we can. Natural lighting and backgrounds just look so nice in a photo.

My hubby took this!

7. Last look through and creating the listing. 

When I’m done with photos and/or testing I add the photos to the pattern and make any other changes I need to make to have it completely ready for publication. Then I create my listing on Ravelry, Etsy, and LoveCrochet and I usually have a pre-release giveaway during this time. I share the design photo with my social media following and give them a chance to win it. This gives people a chance to see it before they buy and share it with their friends.

8. Publishing Day!

The last step is publishing! I upload the PDF file to each of my shops and advertise it on all of my social media platforms! I always do an introductory sale the first few days of the release so that customers can get it at a great price.

As you can see crochet pattern designing is quite the process! I love what I do and I love each step it takes to write an awesome crochet pattern (well except maybe the typing part). It’s hard work but so worth it when I see that someone has completed one of my designs using my pattern! I love when people share with me their projects from my patterns, because it just gives me a great sense of pride and accomplishment. I hope this helped you get an idea of the process I go through when I create each and every pattern I publish! Is this what you expected my crochet pattern designing process to be or did any part of the process surprise you?

 

 

 

Dude Washcloth- Free Crochet Pattern

I have a ton of cotton yarn! Mostly Knit Picks Dishie, that has been sitting in my stash for a while. I love to make washcloths with cotton yarn! I find they are so sturdy but soft and flexible at the same time! My favorite way to use them is in the kitchen! They are thick and great for cleaning up messes! So I used my one of my favorite stitch combos to create this the Dude Washcloth! This washcloth is thick, yet sturdy! You’ll want to make a whole bunch of these, because they are so quick and easy to work up!

The Dude Washcloth crochet pattern also has instructions on how to change the number of stitches so you can make it any size you want! Enjoy!

Dude Washcloth

 

Materials

  • 70 yards (each) worsted weight cotton yarn for set of 4
  • I (5.5mm) crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Tapestry needle

Difficulty

  • Easy

Gauge

  • Row 1 = 9”

Sizing

  • 9” x 9”

Pattern Notes

Starting chain does not count as first stitch, unless stated otherwise within the pattern.

To change size, just work in a multiple of 2 + 1 and make an even square.

Stitches Needed & Abbreviations

ch(s)- chain(s)

st(s)- stitch(es)

hdc- half double crochet

blo- back loop only

*- repeat from

Pattern

Ch 35

Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (34)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 1 hdc in blo of 1st st, 1 hdc in both loops of next st, *1 hdc in blo of next st, 1 hdc in both loops of next st*, repeat from * across. (34)

Rows 3-21: Repeat row 2.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

 

*This post may obtain affiliate links.

Dude Washcloth